JULY 2009 NEWSLETTER

MIXED-CASE SAMPLER: Château St. Martin de la Garrigue, Languedoc Mixed-Case Sampler … 175.00 While tasting with winemaker Jean-Claude Zabalia of Château St. Martin de la Garrigue, we were overwhelmed with the quality and variety of these superb offerings. Unable to choose only one or two for the newsletter, we decided to create a sampler for your tasting pleasure. These fabulous wines from Kermit Lynch are impeccably produced and represent some of the best wine values in all of Southern France. Kermit Lynch writes: “Jean-Claude Zabalia is one of the Languedoc’s best, super-talented and fastidious in the château’s stone cellar. His wines are impeccable and the prices unbeatable.” Each sampler consists of two bottles of six different wines from this great estate. The selection includes four reds and two whites. 2007 Picpoul de Pinet, Blanc – Picpoul, “the lip stinger,” possesses racy acid with a luxurious texture rarely seen in a Picpoul. Superb! 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc, Blanc – Wow! Viscous and mouth-filling. Primarily Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. 2006 Cuvée Tradition – Primarily Carignan and Syrah, and the best value in this great lineup. 2006 Vin de Pays Rouge, Cuvée Reservée – A knockout blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Grenache Noir. Full-bodied and robust. 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc, Bronzinelle – Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and old-vine Carignan goodness that will buckle your knees with its intense garrigue aromas and beautifully balanced earthy fruit. 2006 Cuvée St. Martin, Rouge – This Mourvèdre-and-Syrah blend gets our medallion d’or. Beautiful for drinking now and will age for many years to come.

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2007 Crowley, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 21.99/235.00
Before launching his eponymous venture, Tyson Crowley spent a dozen years working for some of the Willamette Valley’s most prestigious wineries. Crowley’s dedication and hard work have paid off, as is apparent in his superb 2007 Pinot Noir. A classic transparent garnet robe leads to Chambolle-like aromas of pie cherries, cinnamon, orange peel and baking spices. On the palate the wine’s bright, high-toned red fruit meets with the vintage’s brisk acidity, buffered tannins, and complex suggestions of earthy cranberries, fresh porcini mushrooms, smoke and toffee. This is one brilliant, complex Pinot and a testament to the red-fruited glory of the 2007 Willamette Valley vintage. The Crowley is a natural complement to grilled summer vegetables, Chinook salmon, roast chicken, burgers, light casseroles and stews. Enjoy now for its crunchy red fruit, or age three to five years in your cool cellar to allow its earthy, mushroom undertones to develop fully. Terrific Willamette Valley Pinot!

FRANCE – RED

2007 Domaine de la Guicharde, Côtes du Rhône, Southern Rhône Valley, France 9.99/107.00
The march of incredible 2007 Southern Rhônes continues with one of our consistently favorite selections, the superb Côtes du Rhône rouge from Domaine de la Guicharde. Domaine de la Guicharde’s Grenache and Syrah beauty returns with a vengeance in 2007 with a deep plum color and a bright core of raspberry-inflected Grenache fruit. Swirl and sniff and you’re greeted with healthy, vibrant aromas of tree-ripened plums, licorice, star anise, tar and stony earth. Bright on the palate and bursting with energy, vibrancy and stony minerality, this is again the best value going in authentic, old-school Southern Rhône rouge. You can’t afford not to take home a bottle to enjoy with grilled eggplant, lamb, burgers and anything scented with rosemary, garlic or anchovies. We’re fairly certain you’ll call back the next morning for a case to enjoy over the next five years. The 2005 vintage of this lusty rouge turned many a head, and we sold out pronto. Don’t delay on this even spicier and more character-filled 2007. Utterly delicious wine!

2006 Domaines Elie Sumeire, Réserve de la Famille, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France 11.99/128.00
Sumeire’s Reserve de la Famille rouge is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache from the terroir of Montagne St. Victoire. Opaque black-purple in the glass, the Reserve de la Famille offers spicy, earthy aromas of black cherries, bacon fat, leather and tar. On the palate, the wine opens with spicy, tarry garrigue and a stony soil signature accenting the sumptuous plum fruit core. Leathery notes emerge thanks to the noble Mourvèdre component. The wine segues to a long finish featuring hints of bitter chocolate, olives, tobacco and plentiful fine, food-friendly tannins. The Reserve de la Famille is a lovely wine to help with the transition to the coming autumnal months. We suggest enjoying it by itself or over the coming three years with grilled meats, braised rabbit with olives, daubes, and garlicky potato dishes.

2005 La Bastide Blanche, Bandol, Cuvée Fontanéou, Provence, France 28.99/310.00
If the Sumeire Reserve de la Famille (above) heightened your appreciation of the noble Mourvèdre grape, you owe it to yourself to try the big daddy of them all, Bandol. It’s in sunny Bandol, overlooking the Mediterranean, that the Mourvèdre reaches its apogee in finesse and in complexity. La Bastide Blanche is one of Bandol’s most prestigious domaines, and their Cuvée Fontanéou, a blend of 96% Mourvèdre and Grenache, defines exactly the taste of great Bandol. Deep black-purple color in the glass, the Cuvée Fontanéou casts aromas of ripe plums alongside suggestions of tar, leather and herbal garrigue. On the palate, the Cuvée Fontanéou’s plum and blackberry fruit is complemented by complex notes of baker’s chocolate, menthol, tobacco and dusty limestone soil. Long and superbly balanced, the wine finishes with reprises of plums, tar, leather, tobacco and a lashing of fine tannins that bode well for a long, positive evolution in your cellar. Enjoy now and over the coming twenty years (no kidding) with roast lamb, ratatouille, grilled eggplant and other hearty Provençal recipes.

2005 Domaine Berthoumieu, Madiran, Southwest France 13.50/144.50
Along with Cahors, Madiran is one the two legendary “black wines” of France. Berthoumieu’s 2005 fuses the traditional intensity of Madiran with an abundance of ripe, nuanced fruit that makes it approachable now. All of Madiran’s black-purple opacity is here, but the wine is richer and less fierce than in past generations. The wine boasts a brooding nose of tarry blackberry and black plum fruits highlighted by hints of menthol. The initial palate impression offers earth, leather, and dried herbs, joined on the mid-palate by tarry plum and blackberry fruit, bittersweet chocolate, and firm, mouth-coating tannins. The wine’s back-palate introduces a clay soil undercurrent, which marries harmoniously with plentiful tannins and deep black fruit expressions. Lovers of big, bold reds are advised to give this special wine a try. Enjoy now or over the coming eight to ten years with magret de canard, rib roasts of beef and hearty eggplant-rich vegetarian casseroles.

2007 Pierre et Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France 16.99/181.50
The father and son team of Pierre and Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil is on many a Burgundy insider’s short list of domaines to follow. The domaine’s Bourgogne rouge comes from 40-year-old vines located in the upper part of the village of Savigny. A deep ruby color in the glass, the wine casts lovely aromas of red raspberries laced with Savigny’s earthy soil signature. On the palate, the bright red fruit character comes to the fore and then segues to a broad, lush fruit impression accented by dissolved limestone soil, supple tannins, hints of dried orange peel and cinnamon bark. Brisk acidity segues the wine from the palate to its long red-fruited and earthy limestone finish. This is authentic Burgundy of exemplary depth and character, offered at a most affordable price. Pair with roast chicken, duck, salmon and hearty vegetarian casseroles, and enjoy over the coming three years.

ITALY – RED

2007 G. D. Vajra, Langhe Rosso, Piedmont, Italy 13.99/149.50
Early word about the 2007 Piedmont vintage indicates that it’s another terrific vintage of early appeal and stunning aromatics. This Langhe Rosso release from the unjustly overlooked G.D. Vajra estate offers an early glimpse into the goodness that will follow. Opaque black-ruby in color and sporting aromas of ripe cherries, vanilla and menthol, Vajra’s blend of Nebbiolo, Freisa, Barbera and Dolcetto fires on all cylinders. Lush and velvety in the mouth and showing forward cherry and loganberry fruit, the wine morphs to reveal a more serious side with complex leather and tar notes, firm acidity and fine, framing tannins. The combination of dazzling aromas, lush fruit, crisp acidity and firm tannins will make Vajra’s Langhe Rosso a lovely choice at the table with pasta tossed with a butter and sage sauce, grilled burgers, beef, lamb, pizza – anything that calls for a robust red. Vajra’s Langhe Rosso is a terrific glimpse into the character of Piedmont’s 2007 vintage and offers far more flavor, complexity and outright deliciousness than its price tag demands. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

PORTUGAL - RED

2005 Ramos-Pinto, Adriano, Douro Valley, Portugal 11.99/128.00
The Douro Valley is best known for its incomparable Ports, but it also has a long and storied history of producing excellent dry red and white wines. From the Port house of Ramos-Pinto, we’re blessed with this distinctive red that marries the Douro’s four most important red varietals: Touriga Francesa for structure and fruit, Tinta Roriz for tannin and spice, Tinta Barroca for color and smooth tannins, and an accent of Touriga Nacional for finesse and floral aromas. A deep plum color, the Adriano is ripe and ready with up-front wild cherry and boysenberry fruit coupled with notes of black pepper, allspice and smoky earth. Superbly balanced and transparent from start to finish, the Adriano frames its ebullient red and black fruit expressions with firm, round tannins. A great introduction to the dry red wines of the Douro, the Adriano is also a terrific value. Versatile at the table, it will complement everyday fare like pastas, pizzas, casseroles and hamburgers. Enjoy now and over the coming five years.
Wine Spectator – 87 points

SPAIN - RED

2006 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino VII, Rioja, Spain 9.99/107.00
Authentic, old-school red Riojas are truly a thing of beauty and are becoming more scarce each year. The Faustino VII is the bodega’s entry into Faustino’s classic portfolio. A blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha, the Faustino VII opens with a translucent black-ruby robe followed by classic Rioja aromas of dried leaves, blond tobacco, ripe wild cherry fruit and hints of vanilla bean. Broad on the attack, the Faustino VII fuses its leafy cherry fruit with complex nuances of cigar tobacco, cloves, cinnamon and smoky soil. Long, inviting and incredibly high-toned, this is a wine that begs you drink it with gusto. Fortunately at this price, you can enjoy it with impunity alongside grilled lamb, burgers, tapas, summer vegetables and roasts of beef. This is superb, traditional, distinctive Rioja for a song!
Wine Spectator – 87 points

WHITE WINES

AUSTRIA - WHITE

2007 Birgit Eichinger, Grüner Veltliner, Hasel, Kamptal, Austria 13.50/144.50
In a country dominated by a patriarchal wine tradition, Birgit Eichinger is a luminary in Austria’s growing female vintner movement. Her estate is spread over nine hectares of the finest sites around the village of Strass in the Kamptal. From deep loess soils, renowned for growing much of Austria’s finest Veltliner, Eichinger has crafted a beautiful and very affordable Grüner from her Hasel vineyard. A limpid green-gold in the glass, Eichinger’s Hasel opens with lilting aromas of passion fruit, green beans, white pepper and smoky minerals. Brisk and bracing on the attack, the Hasel broadens mid-palate to reveal pure notes of Williams pear, grapefruit and golden delicious apple. Smoky and minerally on the finish, the Hasel is clean, dry, transparent, brisk and ideal for pairing with roast pork, duck, catfish, ling cod and the myriad of summer green vegetables. Enjoy now and over the next five years.

FRANCE - WHITE

2007 Clos Lapeyre, Jurançon Sec, Southwest France 12.99/139.00
Jean-Bernard Larrieu farms ten hectares in the Jurançon appellation in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Larrieu produces the full range of Jurançon wines, including this minerally dry white produced entirely from the indigenous Gros Manseng grape. A gorgeous lemon-gold color accented by green glints, Lapeyre’s Jurançon Sec casts notes of grapefruit, chamomile, apricot, white flowers and limestone minerals on the nose. The palate begins with brisk citrus fruit, but then opens to show Chenin Blanc-like waxy texture and suggestions of gooseberries, lemon pith, menthol and a persistent mineral undercurrent. The finish lasts forever, reprising the wine’s citrus fruit, the wine’s core of apricot, and its urgent minerality. This is a superb introduction to the fascinating and oft-overlooked wines of Jurançon. Buy a case and enjoy over the next three years with duck confit, freshwater fish dishes, roast chicken and vegetarian fare featuring porcini mushrooms, potatoes, artichokes, celeriac or eggplant. Superb wine!

2008 Huguet de Can Feixes, Blanc Selecció, Penedès, Spain 13.50/144.50
The historic Can Feixes estate is situated on the graveled amphitheater-like slopes near the famous Montserrat pinnacle. Vineyard plantation at Can Feixes dates back to 1400, and the estate has been in continuous production since 1690. Only the estate’s finest high-altitude Montonec (a.k.a. Parellada), Macabeo (a.k.a. Viura) and Chardonnay fruit goes into Huguet’s Can Feixes Blanc Selecciò. In the glass, this crisp, green-glinted, straw-colored white offers appetizing aromas of lemon oil, Bosc pear and intense gravelly minerality. On the palate, the Blanc Selecciò’s spine-tingling acidity meshes seamlessly with its bracingly mineral-infused lemon, melon and Mirabelle plum fruit leading to a clean finish marked by another lashing of smoky, gravelly minerals. Enjoy this crisp, refreshing, low-alcohol summer white over the coming two years as a wonderful alternative to old-school French Chablis, Aligoté or Sancerre, and pair it with oysters, white-fleshed fish selections, scallops and other fruits du mer.

ITALY – WHITE

2007 Compagnia di Ermes, Cibele Bianco, Lazio IGT, Italy 13.50/144.50
Here’s one for the annals of wine geekdom: a brilliant, distinctive Italian white wine made from two grapes we’ve never heard of, much less tasted. This tasty straw-gold wonder comes from Lazio and is made from the obscure grapes Ottonese and Bollone, also known as “uva pane.” Grown in Lazio’s wooded Selva zone and named for the goddess of the earth and agriculture, the Cibele rewards the faithful with fascinating aromas of mango, hay, apple and smoke. Broad on the palate yet seemingly weightless, the wine transforms with aeration to reveal notes of grapefruit, lemon zest, pineapple and muskmelon. Long and resinous on the finish, the Cibele adds weight and further notes of pine nuts and nutmeg. This is a fascinating wine that will stump any wine geek chump and yet will also please the ardent Italian white wine lover with its kaleidoscope of flavors and versatility at the table. Enjoy this rare and delicious beauty with grilled squid, prawns, zucchini and chicken marinated in lemon, olive oil and herbs.

2007 Cantina Valpantena, Falasco, Garganega, Veronese IGT, Italy 9.50/101.50
Garganega is the noble and distinctive grape of Soave. Often it’s blended with Trebbiano and other varietals, but the finest Soaves always include a predominance of Garganega or employ it exclusively. The Falasco Garganega IGT is 100% Garganega grown around the city of Verona. The result is superb: a medium-gold-colored bianco with the weight of a fine white Burgundy and the honeyed complexity and almond notes of the Garganega. This is a rich, creamy wine that walks the tightrope between its barrel-aged richness and complexity yet retains enough acidity to lift the wine and keep it fresh on the palate. Almond, hazelnut, honeycomb and cinnamon notes play with yellow plum and quince fruit. A lovely smoky soil note emerges on the finish and prepares the palate for a bite of roast chicken, duck, semi-firm cheese, or grilled squash.

2008 Marchetti, Tenuta del Cavaliere, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Marches, Italy 13.99/149.50
Verdicchio is central Italy’s most distinctive white varietal. It reaches its apogee in the mineral-rich soils of the Classico Superiore sector of the Marches’ Castelli di Jesi zone just a few miles from the Adriatic Sea. We love the Verdicchio and frequently feature the best examples in these pages. Nothing prepared us for this “later harvested” interpretation from the fastidious Marchetti domaine. A medium green-gold in the bowl, Marchetti’s Verdicchio has all the minerally snap pea and white pepper notes that mark the very finest of the genre. The rich, mouth-filling pear and melon fruit is backed by intense currents of smoky minerals, riveting acidity, and flavor crystals of Genmai tea, chamomile, lemon zest and grapefruit. This wine takes Verdicchio to another level; pair it now and over the coming five years with hearty fare that calls for a bold white wine such as swordfish, fresh albacore tuna, rabbit, duck, zucchini casseroles and similarly robust cuisine.

PORTUGAL – WHITE

2006 Quinta das Maias, Malvasia-Fina, Dão, Portugal 13.99/149.50
Our delicious journey through Portugal continues with yet another tonic for the jaded palate: barrel-fermented Malvasia from the Dão in north-central Portugal. The Dão is well known to be Portugal’s finest source of dry red wines, but conscientious producers like Quinta das Maias are raising the ante by experimenting with indigenous varietals to make crisp, modern, dry white wines. Somewhat akin to a cross between a minerally Chenin Blanc from Savennières, a full-bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc and a waxy Viura from Rioja’s Lopez de Heredia, Quinta das Maias’ Malvasia-Fina offers a rich lemon-gold hue and heady aromas of wildflower honey, smoky schistose minerals and pine resin. Intense and penetrating on the palate, the wine introduces notes of menthol, lemon balm and beeswax. Rich yet weightless on the palate, the Malvasia-Fina finishes long and waxy with reprises of honeycomb, pine resin, mentholated lemon and an undercurrent of smoky minerals. Highly distinctive, bone dry and bristling with acidity, the wine will pair with heartier fare like herbed roast chicken, quail, braised pork, duck and rabbit, or with aromatic vegetarian preparations featuring bay leaf and thyme.

2007 Herdade do Esporão, Monte Velho Branco, Alentejo, Portugal 9.99/107.00
With three selections in this newsletter alone – not to mention all the goodies on our shelves – you’ve probably figured out by now that we’re nuts about the distinctive and food-friendly wines of Portugal. Our grills are fired and our glasses are filled with these brisk, versatile white wines. New to our palates is this riveting Monte Velho, a blend of indigenous Roupeiro, Antão Vaz and Perrum from Alentejo. Brilliant lemon gold with green highlights, the Monte Velho casts brisk, musky notes of green melon, lime zest and lemon balm. The wine’s crisp but broad palate adds notes of fresh bay leaf, peach, and Comice pear. A distinctive menthol note emerges on the back-palate and propels the Monte Velho to a long sumptuous lime and melon-tinged finish. At this price, grab a case to get you through the warm weather, and pair it with the entire spectrum of grilled seafood, white-sauced seafood pasta dishes, sautéed summer squashes, tapas, spicy squid or prawns, and any summertime fare featuring lots of garlic and olive oil.

ROSÉ WINE

ITALY – ROSÉ

2008 Rigoloccio, Rosato, Maremma, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy 9.99/107.00
Tuscany’s Maremma zone is home to the granddaddy of all the Super Tuscans, Sassicaia. As evidenced by this terrific 100% Cabernet Franc rosé, the region’s flair with traditional Bordeaux varietals works as well at the affordable end of the spectrum as it does in the fiscal stratosphere. Rigoloccio’s 2008 rosato shows a brilliant orange-tinged watermelon color and the earthy, herbal notes that define the noble Cabernet Franc. On the palate, the rosato balances ample watermelon and cranberry fruit alongside brisk acidity and complex notes of limestone terroir. Smoky, rich, yet totally refreshing, Rigoloccio’s rosato finishes long and clean, adding suggestions of red raspberries, wild strawberries and that refreshing herbal streak that brings Chinon to mind. Delicious and priced well below its quality level, enjoy this as you would a more expensive Chinon, Saumur or Bourgueil rosé. Lovely by itself as an after-work refresher, it will also pair well with just about anything off the grill.

NV Maison Vergnes / Domaine de Martinolles, Le Berceau, Blanquette de Limoux 11.99/128.00

2008 Gioacchino Garofoli, Guelfo Verde Frizzante, Marches, Italy 8.99/96.00

2005 Alain Roy, Montagny, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France 19.99/213.50

2006 Beringer Winery, Private Reserve, Chardonnay, Napa Valley 26.99/289.00 reg. 32.00

OREGON SPECIAL FOCUS: Read more online

2004 Eyrie Reserve Pinot Noir 56.99/608.00

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.
CLOSED: Saturday, July 4

MIXED-CASE SAMPLER:
Ch. St. Martin de la Garrigue, Languedoc

RED WINES:
2007 Crowley Pinot Noir Oregon
2007 Dom. de la Guicharde Côtes du Rhône
2006 Dom. Elie Sumeire Réserve de la Famille Côtes de Provence
2005 La Bastide Blanche Bandol
2005 Dom. Berthoumie, Madiran
2007 Lebreuil Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2007 G. D. Vajra Langhe Rosso
2005 Ramos-Pinto Adriano Portugal
2006 Bodegas Faustino Faustino VII Rioja

WHITE WINES:
2007 Birgit Eichinger Grüner Veltliner Austria
2007 Clos Lapeyre Jurançon Sec
2008 Huguet de Can Feixes Blanc Selecció, Spain
2007 Compagnia di Ermes Cibele Bianco
2007 Cantina Valpantena Falasco Garganega
2008 Marchetti Tenuta del Cavalier, Verdicchio
2006 Quinta das Maias Malvasia-Fina Portugal
2007 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco Portugal

ROSE WINE:
2008 Rigoloccio Rosato Toscana IGT

WEB EXTRAS:
NV Maison Vergnes / Dom. de Martinolles Le Berceau Blanquette de Limoux
2008 Gioacchino Garofoli Guelfo Verde Frizzante
2005 Alain Roy, Montagny 1er Cru Burgundy
2006 Beringer Winery Private Reserve Chardonnay

OREGON SPECIAL FOCUS:
2004 Eyrie Reserve Pinot Noir

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

July 3 Celebration Time! Our semi-annual Champagne blast leads off the Fourth of July weekend.

July 17 Great White Wines of Spain

Aug 7 Is the promise of Oregon Chardonnay being met? Come and taste from among the best of Oregon’s Chardonnay.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

July 4 L&E IS CLOSED. We re-open on Monday, July 6.

July 11 Taste a selection of wines from Small Vineyards Brands: Compagnia di Ermes, Cibele Bianco Marchetti Verdicchio and Rigoloccio Rosato. Plus, from France: Clos Lapeyre Jurançon Sec, Lebreuil Pinot Noir, Dom. Elie Sumeire Réserve, and La Bastide Blanche Bandol.

July 18 Great wines from Iberia: Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco, Quinta das Maias Malvasia-Fina, Can Feixes Blanc, Ramos-Pinto Adriano and Faustino VII Rioja. At table two: Dom. de la Guicharde Côtes du Rhône, Dom. Berthoumieu Madiran, and Birgit Eichinger Grüner Veltliner.

July 25 Oregon’s own Crowley Pinot Noir, Cantina Valpantena Falasco Garganega, G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, and selections from our Kermit Lynch sampler of Ch. St. Martin de la Garrigue.