NOVEMBER 2009 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2007 Thomas, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Oregon 45.99/492.00
Vintage after vintage, Thomas’ tiny production from his lovingly tended vineyard is snapped up immediately by dedicated fans. This is your fair warning: just like last year and every year before, this wine will sell out within hours. Thomas’s 2007 Pinot reflects all the red-fruited glory of the finest examples of the vintage, but with an unusually dense and juicy core of red berry fruit and a gorgeous, velvety mouth-feel. The wine casts a brilliant ruby color, followed by enticing aromas of cinnamon, caramel, freshly-crushed loganberries and a hint of earthy cranberries. On the palate there’s an effortless sense of elegance and finesse: the wine shows supple texture, beautifully balanced exuberant fruit, juicy acidity and supple tannins. Delicious now, this wine will be hard to keep your hands off of. Given Thomas’s excellent track record for ageability, his ’07 Pinot will undoubtedly gain depth, complexity and nuance over the next seven to ten years in your cool cellar.

2008 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
In a very short time, Ayres Vineyard has become a major player in the Oregon wine scene by fashioning juicy, delicious, handcrafted Pinots at very sensible prices. The winery’s 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot is a blend of Dijon clones from Ayres’ Ribbon Ridge estate accented by old-vine fruit from the Eola Hills. The result is one of the most lively and deliciously accessible 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs we’ve yet tasted. A deep ruby color in the glass, the Ayres opens with snappy aromas of loganberries, cinnamon-tinged cherries and perfumed soil. Showing the balance and grace of the great 2008 Willamette Valley vintage, the Ayres Pinot continues with further waves of ripe berry fruit accented by a lovely earthy soil streak and framed by firm acidity and modest, round tannins. Lilting, elegant and delicious right out of the chute, enjoy this splendidly balanced, fruit-forward Oregon Pinot over the next two years with grilled salmon, grilled chicken, boudin blanc and everyday fare like burgers and pork chops.

FRANCE – RED

2007 Bernard Defaix, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
Over the past decade, the Bernard Defaix domaine has earned itself a position in the top echelon of Chablis producers. From vineyards in Auxerre, only fifteen kilometers from Chablis proper, Defaix’s 2007 Bourgogne Pinot Noir conveys the wonderful marriage of Burgundian Pinot Noir on Chablis’ unique soils. A limpid garnet hue in the glass, Defaix’s Bourgogne rouge casts aromas of earthy, red cherry, cranberry and raspberry fruit. Crunchy, fresh red fruit notes greet the palate only to be joined by brisk acidity, framing, food-friendly tannins and a blast of oyster-shell limestone terroir. On its long, limestone-driven finish, the wine balances its sappy red fruit kernel with tangy acidity and further waves of light limestone minerality. Utterly delicious and versatile at the table, we suggest enjoying this beauty young to capture all of its vibrant red fruit and lip-smacking acidity. It’s a natural pair for roast chicken, duck, potatoes au gratin, salmon and light pork preparations.

2007 Jean-Maurice Raffault, Chinon, Les Galuches, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Cabernet Franc, the noble red grape of the Loire Valley’s Touraine sub-region, achieves a special sense of elegance on the clay, limestone and gravel soils of Chinon. Chinon’s inimitable dusty, gravelly soil signature is on full display for all to enjoy in this lovely, affordable bottling from the Jean-Maurice Raffault domaine. Raffault’s 2007 Chinon spreads the joy of the region - and the scent of its soil - with its lovely plum-ruby robe, crisp cassis fruit, gravelly terroir, and distinctive earthy, sous bois expression. A lovely choice for cool autumnal evenings, Raffault’s Chinon is juicy, delicious and ready now for steak frites, burgers, roast chicken, pork loin or other happy bistro food. Drink now or over the next five years.

2006 Jérôme Calmes, Minervois Les Vialas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 11.50/123.00
In the hinterlands of the Languedoc lies the ancient village of Minervois and its fabled rugged terrain. Minervois’ arid climate, high altitude and rocky soils produce wines renowned for the excellence, character and value relative to their southern French peers. From Les Vialas, one of Minervois’ most prestigious crus, Jérôme Calmes had fashioned a textbook expression of the region’s rustic, hearty and delicious rouges. Opaque black-plum in the glass, Calmes’ Les Vialas casts aromas blackberry and black plum fruit infused with tarry garrigue notes of juniper and sage. Sappy on the palate and brimming with blackberry and black currant fruit, the wine transitions mid-palate to reveal fine tannins and complex notes of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. Juicy and briskly acidic, the wine finishes clean and ready for pairing now and over the next three years with grilled rack of lamb, burgers, garlicky ratatouille and grilled sausages. This is a terrific value for a first-rate Minervois.

ITALY – RED

2006 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 13.50/144.50
Fattoria di Petroio, owned by American Pamela Lenzi, is already well established as an L&E and Portland favorite. Thanks to direct import pricing, Petroio’s Chiantis compete with the region’s elite, yet in our market cost half the price. Petroio’s 2006 Chianti Classico continues the estate’s streak of successes with this deep, brooding, classic Sangiovese-driven Chianti. The ’06 is defined by its dense black-plum robe, crimson rim, and a textbook Chianti Classico bouquet of tar, violets, cinnamon-tinged matsutake mushrooms and saddle leather. The Petroio’s inky color stains the palate with tarry, leathery, saturated blackberry and damson plum fruit. Restrained and elegant yet ripe, lively and transparent, the ’06 Petroio fuses deep, earthy Sangiovese fruit with notes of black cherries, lively acidity and plentiful firm, food-friendly tannins. The Petroio finishes long and earthy with complex notes of tar, leather, tobacco and fine baker’s chocolate. Pair this now and over the short term with hearty pastas, roasts and rustic casseroles featuring tomato, zucchini and potatoes. The Petroio 2006 Chianti Classico will also reward three to ten years’ patience in your cool cellar.

2007 G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 17.99/192.50
Dedicated to all that is true and authentic in Piemontese wines, the Vajra estate has fashioned a Dolcetto that’s at once both serious to aficionados of Piemontese wines and true to the grape’s humble origins. Dolcetto, or the “little sweet one,” is the wine of the people of Piemonte. Most often relegated to lesser first courses, Dolcetto can rise to the occasion and perform as a wine of uncommon deliciousness and versatility at the table. Vajra has crafted a beauty from the fine 2007 vintage. A deep plum color in the glass, Vajra’s Dolcetto casts aromas of plums, cherries and licorice. Fleshy on the attack, the wine tightens on the mid-palate, revealing fine, buffered tannins and complex notes of sarsaparilla, tar, black licorice and menthol. Juicy and appetizingly tannic, the wine finishes brisk, clean, and ready for another bite of Piemontese classics like bagna caôda, carne cruda, red pepper flan and simple risottos. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

2005 Rapalino, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont, Italy 19.99/213.50
Rapalino’s exemplary Barbera has been a great success and a customer favorite over the years. Now we’re delighted to present Rapalino’s superb Nebbiolo, also from the esteemed high-altitude Pian Romualdo vineyard. Rapalino’s ’05 Nebbiolo opens with a dense purple-rube robe and ripe aromas of red cherries, plums, leather and bay leaf. Fleshy on the attack, the Nebbiolo’s noble tannins sneak in mid-palate and contribute structure and help project the wine’s complex expression of cloves, saddle leather, button mushrooms, macerated cherries, tar and cinnamon bark. The tannins also serve to segue the wine to its long, earthy finish – inflected with mushroom, licorice and limestone – that reminds us of some of Monforte’s esteemed Barolos. Enjoy this superb Nebbiolo over the coming decade as a companion to risotto, braised beef, grilled lamb and the heartiest pastas and vegetarian casseroles. Only 16 cases available.

WHITE WINES

OREGON – WHITE

2007 St. Innocent, Pinot Gris, Vitae Springs Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
It’s no secret that Salem's St. Innocent Winery perennially produces some of the Willamette Valley’s finest Pinot Gris. Fascinated and inspired by the great Pinot Gris of Alsace, winemaker Mark Vlossak has fashioned another winner with his Alsatian-styled Pinot Gris from South Salem’s Vitae Springs Vineyard. Featuring a lemon gold color, the ’07 Vitae Springs jumps out of the glass with a classic, smoky, buttery nose that has become the hallmark of Oregon’s finest Pinot Gris. On the palate, the fruit is full and ample with notes of yellow plums, peaches, quince and pink grapefruit. Round in texture yet brisk, the ample palate segues to a long, dry finish featuring notes of gooseberries and fresh hops. This attention-grabbing Pinot Gris will work best at the table as a complement to classic Northwest fare such as broiled halibut and cedar-planked salmon. It will also pair withturkey and duck dishes. Drink now or over the next year or two.

2007 Eyrie Vineyards, Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon 12.50/133.50
Jason Lett is now confidently in charge at the pioneering winery founded by his legendary father. True to his father’s legacy, Jason continues to fashion elegant wines of purity, restraint and versatility at the table. Lett’s ’07 Pinot Blanc is an instant classic, fusing the golden richness of the finest Alsatian Pinot Blancs with food-friendly crispness and freshness. Straw-gold in the glass, Lett’s Pinot Blanc first entices with a smoky bouquet of chamomile and white tea. On the palate, the wine fuses Pinot Blanc’s natural fleshy pear fruit with a spicy edge, citrus zestiness and smoky minerality. Zippy and bursting with character, this classic Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc should be enjoyed now and over the coming five years with sautéed halibut, sashimi, blanquette de veau, mussels, clams and fresh oysters.

FRANCE - WHITE

2008 Domaine Labbé, Abymes, Savoie, France 12.99/139.00
Savoie’s Abymes AOC is named for the broken stones (abimes) that fall from the Alps during avalanches and thus mark its terroir. The sole permitted grape in Abymes is the Jacquère, a crisp, light-bodied grape that marries well with light, freshwater fish dishes. Labbé’s 2008 is an unusually broad, full-bodied Abymes: crisp, refreshing and bursting with lemony fruit, yet rich in texture and more muscular than its glorious 11% alcohol might suggest. Bright lemon-gold color in the glass, Labbé’s ’08 Abymes offers aromas of smoke, grapefruit and crunchy fennel. The wine’s bracing acidity plays on the palate with bright citrus and pear fruits alongside hints of anise, tarragon and minerals. Crisp, delicious and oh-so-quaffable, Labbé’s Abymes shows superb intensity and persistence. Notes of lemon, limestone and juicy acidity mark the wine’s crisp, inviting finish. We suggest pairing this refreshing rarity with oysters, scallops and white-fleshed fish dishes. Enjoy the Abymes young in order to capture all its crisp acidity and crunchy minerality.

2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
In the world of fine white Burgundy, the brothers Matrot issue some of the finest Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets from their superb vineyards in Charmes, Perrières, Combettes, etc. We love Matrot’s wines and know that they age better and longer than some of the more recognizable names. From vines near Meursault proper, Matrot’s Bourgogne Chardonnay transcends its humble designation. A lovely straw-gold in the glass, the Bourgogne Chardonnay explodes with aromas of buttery lemon curd and dissolved limestone minerals. On the palate the wine is brisk, combining bracing acidity and a lashing of dissolved minerality with laser-like precision and deft balance. The faintest hints of vanilla bean and caramel sneak in as the wine transitions to its long lemon and mineral finish. This is a superb full-bodied white Burgundy that will work well at the Thanksgiving table and well into the next three years with broiled halibut, light poultry dishes and lighter roast pork preparations.

HUNGARY - WHITE

2008 Pannonhalmi Apátsági, Tricollis Cuvée, Pannonhalma, Hungary 11.50/123.00
The great Terry Theise never fails to amaze us. In addition to being America’s premier ambassador for Grower Champagnes and German and Austrian wines, he is now bringing us the brilliant and undiscovered wines of Hungary. The Pannonhalma is one of Hungary’s smallest wine growing regions and famed for its steep slopes. This zesty blend of Welschriesling, Riesling and Tramini (Gewürztraminer) has all of us dancing around the shop counter. Casting a brilliant green-gold hue, the Tricollis Cuvée opens with aromatic notes of crisp McIntosh apples, muskmelon, kiwi and smoky minerals. Crisp yet broad on the palate, the Tricollis Cuvée fuses the Riesling’s citrus and stone fruit notes with the Tramini’s musky litchi notes and the Welschriesling’s juicy acidity. This delicious mélange is wound together tightly with a fine lace of stony minerality. Delightful as an aperitif, we think this Tricollis Cuvée will find a home at your table with grilled vegetables, turkey, and dishes featuring onions and potatoes. Just for the fun of it, we’re going to make a goulash and see how this wine matches.

ITALY – WHITE

2008 Ernesto Picollo, Gavi di Gavi, Rovereto, Piedmont, Italy 13.50/144.50
Based on the Cortese grape, Gavi is the Piedmont’s most celebrated white wine and the one of only a handful of Italian white wines to be honored with full D.O.C.G. status. Portending the excellence of the Piedmont’s 2008 vintage, Ernesto Picollo has captured the minerally essence of Gavi, and we gratefully offer it at a most affordable tariff. Picollo’s Gavi begins with a brilliant lemon-gold color and aromas of chalky minerals, chamomile and hay. The Gavi’s attack is at first crisp and juicy, then broadens on the mid-palate to offer notes of grapefruit, crisp pears and bitter herbs. The wine finishes crisp and lip-smacking with complex notes of citrus zest, smoky minerals and almond skin, the latter of which gives the Gavi a splendid tactile grip as it lingers pleasantly on the palate. Drink young to capture the wine’s freshness, crispness and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper, vegetarian frittatas, clams and halibut.

SPAIN – WHITE

2007 Martina Prieto, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 14.99/160.00
Verdejo is the signature gape of Spain’s Rueda region, located on the banks of the Duero River just east of Ribera del Duero. Martina Prieto’s Verdejo, grown on limestone-rich soils at over 2,000 feet above sea level, opens with a Chablis-like green-gold color. On the nose, Verdejo’s fragrant nature takes center stage with aromas of grass, mint, basil, pineapple and quince. Brisk and fresh on the palate, the wine alternates waves of grapefruit and lemon citrus fruit with refreshing grassy, herbal notes and an undercurrent of limestone minerality. The Verdejo finishes clean and pure, adding hints of lime zest and salty minerality. We suggest enjoying this unique, delicious and versatile wine now and over the coming year with seafood tapas, fresh goats’ milk cheese, sautéed squashes and green vegetable frittatas or tortillas.

SPARKLING WINES

NV Rive della Chiesa Prosecco Brut, Montello e Colli Asolani, Veneto, Italy 13.50/144.50
Prosecco, the great sparkling wine sensation of Italy’s Veneto region, is rarely as fine, delicate and delicious as this fresh bottling from Rive della Chiesa. Here we have a Prosecco of delicacy, crispness and unusually fine effervescence. Fruity on the nose yet brisk on the palate, Rive della Chiesa’s Brut is everything Prosecco is supposed to be, yet so rarely is. Pale lemon-gold in the flute, the wine casts aromas of peaches, sweet lemon curd and hints of toast. Balanced, dry and undeniably delicious, this is a sparkling wine of value, refreshment and versatility. Great for holiday toasts and as a delicious aperitif, it will also complement your Thanksgiving turkey or Tofurkey, as well as the myriad of freshwater fish and light vegetable preparations. Enjoy now, frequently throughout the holidays, and well into the New Year.

NV Claude Genet, à Chouilly, Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France 39.99/427.00
Claude Genet is a genuine, card-carrying participant in the Grower Champagne movement. Genet, however, keeps a low profile and receives little fanfare in the wine press. This sneaky little fact is great news for us cost-conscious Champagne lovers, as this is one heckuva fine example of grand cru blanc de blancs fizz at an unbeatable price. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, Genet’s blanc de blancs offers classic aromas of wheat biscuits, lemon curd and yeasty brioche. Brisk on the palate with abundant mousse, tiny bubbles, plush palate presence, gorgeous lemony fruit and a persistent undercurrent of smoky, chalky terroir, this is the real deal in handcrafted Champagne. Fresh and brisk, serve this with just about anything but the reddest of meats. The wine drinks great now but is poised for another three to five years of positive evolution in your cool cellar. Grab a case now for this year’s holidays and for enjoyment over the next five years.

NV Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire, Carte Turquoise Brut, Loire Valley, France 18.99/203.00
This perennial favorite sparkling wine from the Loire Valley is back. Domaine des Baumard’s Carte Turquoise offers aromas of brioche, chamomile, apples and ginger, adding a deep, earthy soil signature all its own. The Carte Turquoise’s attack is rich and creamy, gentler and more velvety than most sparkling wines. Mid-palate, the wine gains weight and richness without losing focus or vivacity. On the finish, notes of lemon, chamomile, wet straw and toast make the Turquoise perhaps the most complex and satisfying bubbly for the money.

• 2007 Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Southern Rhône Valley, France 13.99/149.50

• 2004 Tenuta di Arceno, PrimaVoce, Tuscany, Italy 11.99/128.00 reg. 16.99

• The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler …. 160.00 per case

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m -6 p.m.
CLOSED: Thanksgiving Day, Thurs. Nov. 26

THIS MONTH'S WINES

RED WINES:
2007 Thomas Pinot Noir
2008 Ayres,Pinot Noir
2007 Defaix Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2007 Raffault Chinon Les Galuches
2006 Calmes Minervois Les Vialas
2006 Petroio Chianti Classico
2007 Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba
2005 Rapalino Nebbiolo d’Alba

WHITE WINES:
2007 St. Innocent Pinot Gris
2007 Eyrie Pinot Blanc
2008 Labbé, Abymes
2007 Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay
2008 Pannonhalmi Apátsági Tricollis Cuvée
2008 Picollo Gavi di Gavi
2007 Prieto Verdejo

SPARKLING WINES:
NV Rive della Chiesa Prosecco Brut
NV Genet Brut Blanc de Blancs
NV Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut

WEB EXTRA WINES:
2007 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc
2004 Tenuta di Arceno PrimaVoce
The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

Nov. 6 Is there anything silkier, sexier and tastier than Volnay? Come and find out.

Nov. 20 Great wines from the Northern Rhône: Clape, Guigal, Chave, Paris, and lots of other luminaries.

Dec. 4 Italian Beauties from the Piemonte region of Italy.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

Oct. 31 Vive la France! Michel Delhommeau Muscadet, Dom. Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis, Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc, and Dom. Bressy-Masson Rasteau.

Nov. 7 Great Oregon Wines: Taste some of Oregon’s best, as we present the folks from Ayres, Biggio Hamina, Crowley, and Eyrie.

Nov. 14 Manuela Ravanelli from Winebow Imports will pour great Italian wines from Mastroberadino, Altesino, Castello di Bossi, Giacosa, and more. Plus, from France: Bernard Defaix Bourgogne Rouge, Matrot Chardonnay, Jérôme Calmes Minervois Les Vialas, and Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Les Galuches.

Nov. 21 We welcome back Pamela Lenzi of Fattoria Petroio, as she pours her beautiful, classic Chiantis. Plus, from Oregon: Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc, St. Innocent Pinot Gris Vitae Springs, Ayres Pinot Noir, and Thomas Pinot Noir. And, to celebrate the holidays - Sparkling wines and Champagne: Rive della Chiesa Prosecco, Baumard Turquoise, and Genet Blanc de Blancs.

Nov. 28 We saved some of the best for last! Pannonhalmi Apátsági Tricollis Cuvée, Dom. Labbé Abymes, Martina Prieto Verdejo, Ernesto Picollo Gavi di Gavi, G. D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba, Rapalino Nebbiolo d’Alba, and Brigaldara Valpolicella.

OCTOBER 2009 NEWSLETTER

MIXED-CASE SAMPLER: The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler ... 160.00 per case Insiders know that in the hands of artisan producers, Beaujolais rises to a level of deliciousness and versatility that few red wines can match. We’re delighted to present a gorgeous quartet of authentic, terroir-driven Beaujolais at a most attractive price. We encourage you to discover just how amazing these wines from Burgundy’s southern-most outpost are. The sampler consists of three bottles of each selection: • 2007 Domaine Dupré, Beaujolais, Terre Noire, Vieilles Vignes - Sappy, bright and crunchy red fruit core accented by a riveting perfume of crushed rock. Forty-year-old vines give superb depth and character for a village Beaujolais. • 2007 Domaine Pascal Aufranc, Chénas, Vieilles Vignes de 1939 - From nearly seventy-year-old vines in Beaujolais’ smallest cru: gamy boysenberry fruit, fine, buffered tannins, and a lashing of granitic terroir that lingers on the palate. • 2006 Domaine Pascal Berthier, Saint-Amour, Vieilles Vignes - Deep aromas of cranberries, menthol and earth; full-bodied, firm and will easily repay three to five years’ ageing. • 2006 Domaine Gérard Carvet, Moulin à Vent, La Réserve d’Amélie Vieilles Vignes - Brooding and Pommard-like; firm tannins and tangy acids command hearty food now or cellaring for three to seven years. An outstanding example of Beaujolais’ longest-lived cru.

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2008 Evesham Wood, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
Year-in and year-out, Russ and Mary Raney’s Evesham Wood winery issues one of the Willamette Valley’s very finest value Pinot Noirs. In the balanced, structured and potentially age-worthy 2008 vintage, they have fashioned yet another winner. A blend of fruit from non-irrigated, sustainably-farmed vineyards, Evesham Wood’s 2008 Pinot opens with a lovely translucent ruby robe and complex aromas of freshly crushed raspberries, nutmeg, wood spice and cinnamon. The complex bouquet segues to a juicy palate of ripe red raspberries, tart cranberries, menthol and earth. The wine’s long, crisp finish reprises the red berry fruit kernel, and adds a touch of fine, food-friendly tannins to keep a lovely balance. Drink this now with roast chicken, or better yet lay it down for a few months and serve it next spring with salmon and lighter cuisine. Already juicy, sappy, tangy and delicious, the wine will also reward your patience with extra complexity, texture and nuance with three to five years in your cool cellar.

2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Laurène, Dundee Hills, Oregon 60.99/651.50
2006 marks the fifteenth vintage of DDO’s Laurène prestige cuvée, and once again Véronique Drouhin has fashioned a superb wine that captures the plumpness, charm and ampleness of the Willamette Valley’s 2006 vintage with the kind of Burgundian restraint for which DDO has become renowned. The ’06 Laurène is a deep ruby color in the glass and offers opulent aromas of freshly crushed boysenberries, cloves, vanilla and caramel. Jay Miller, writing for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, awards the wine 92 points and gushes: “The 2006 Pinot Noir Laurène is medium-dark ruby colored with an alluring perfume of pain grille, mineral, spice box, cherry, and black raspberry with some blue notes in the background. It has more depth and concentration than the ‘cuvee classique’ with gobs of sweet, ripe fruit, enough structure to evolve for 3 to 4 years, and a 45-second finish. Drink it from 2012 to 2021.” We concur and add that the Laurène drinks impressively well now.
Wine Advocate—92 points

FRANCE – RED

2005 Domaine Bressy-Masson, Rasteau, Côtes du Rhone Villages, Southern Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00
It’s only a matter of time before Rasteau, the most hallowed of the Côtes du Rhone Villages, is promoted to full “appellation contrôlée” status of its own. Until then we can marvel at the astonishing quality for the laughable pittance the wines of this region still offer. Rasteau is revered for its bold Gigondas-like reds, and Bressy-Masson delivers with this gorgeously scented, mineral-driven masterpiece. An opaque black-plum color, Bressy-Masson’s Rasteau rouge opens with licorice- and garrigue-tinged blackberry and plum fruit. On the palate, the wine reveals a brilliant undercurrent of wet stones and limestone soil. Deft, balanced and utterly delicious, this Rasteau behaves more like a fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape than a humble Côtes du Rhone Villages. At four years of age, the wine is just coming into its own and will continue to evolve for five to seven years in your cool cellar. Pair with grilled lamb, eggplant, burgers and rich poultry.

2006 Vidal-Fleury, Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhône Valley, France 8.99/96.00
Now under the ownership of the great Guigal family, the venerable house of Vidal-Fleury continues its tradition of excellence. Vidal-Fleury’s Côtes-du-Ventoux is a spicy, herb and garrigue-scented red Rhône that offers elegance, grace and a ton of character for its modest price tag. Deep black-plum in color, the wine offers a chewy mouthful of Grenache-based fruit accented by classic Southern Rhône notes of tar, juniper, lavender and sage. Bright on the palate, the wine is superbly balanced and (thanks to no oak influence) conveys all the herbal, leather and tarry complexity that we relish in Southern Rhône reds. A tasty dose of the Southern French “funk” gives the wine added complexity and energy. For tons of authentic Southern Rhône goodness at an everyday price, this beauty from Vidal-Fleury can’t be beat. Enjoy now and over the next two years with stews, daubes, lamb roasted with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, and hearty vegetarian fare. Only 25 cases available.

ITALY – RED

2005 Podere Capaccia, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 17.99/192.50
Authentic Chianti Classico is one of the true delights of the wine world. Situated in the medieval town of Radda in Chianti, one of the region’s most hallowed villages, comes this 95% Sangiovese-5% Canaiolo gem that offers a mouthful of round, fleshy plum fruit accented by Sangiovese’s inimitable leathery, woodsy overtones. Black-ruby in color, Capaccia’s Chianti blossoms with aeration, offering complex notes of menthol, dark roast coffee, underbrush and untanned leather. Firm, fine tannins and wintergreen highlights transition the wine from its palate-staining presence to a long, smoky, earthy finish. Given the wine’s pedigree, complexity and character, this is one beautiful Chianti for a modest tariff. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with grilled Porterhouse steaks, rustic eggplant casseroles and all hearty fare.

2007 Brigaldara, Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy 13.99/149.50
There’s truly nothing like pure, unadulterated Valpolicella for versatility and unbridled drinkability at the table. In this gorgeous 2007 from Brigaldara, you’ll find Valpolicella as it was meant to be: (a) from the prestigious and superior Classico zone, (b) robust enough to stand up to hearty meats and assertive vegetarian cuisine, and (c) showing exemplary focus, precision and grip. The ’07 Brigaldara Valpo delivers a perfumed nose of cherry-raspberry fruit accented by hints of potpourri, followed by a full, balanced and delicious mouthful of spicy cherry and raspberry fruit. Not only does it taste terrific, but like the best Valpolicellas, it refreshes your palate and prepares you for your next bite. Behind its medium garnet robe is a wine bursting with brightness, exuberance, crisp acidity, round tannins and an appetizing bitter almond note on the finish. Made exclusively from Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Sangiovese, the wine is ripe, lush and ready to go. Pair now and over the next three years with pasta, chicken, tomato dishes, burgers, pizza and grilled zucchini.

2006 Cabanon, Augurio, Provincia di Pavia, IGT, Lombardia, Italy 12.99/139.00
From a special sector in Lombardia’s Oltrepò Pavese zone, this organic blend of Bonarda, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot has the whole staff singing its praises. Plum-ruby in color, the Augurio – which translates to “good omen” – is bright, deft and delicious right from the get-go. Though the Bonarda, (a.k.a. Croatina in the region) is the dominant constituent of the blend, the wine acts more like a fine, old-school Barbera with its brisk acidity, transparency and bitter almond finish. Notes of black raspberries, tar, cinnamon and cloves play alongside fine tannins and lip-smacking acidity to create one of the best Italian wine deals of the year. Enjoy this crowd pleaser now and over the coming two years with just about anything but seafood and green vegetables.

2007 Vincenzo Ippolito, Ciro Rosso, Classico Superiore, Liber Pater, Calabria, Italy 11.50/123.00
In Calabria, at the “toe” of Italy’s “boot,” vineyards sweep right down to the beaches along the Ionian Sea. The rare Gaglioppo grape is indigenous to the region’s sub-zone of Enotria. With its deep black ruby color, Ippolito’s Liber Pater Cirò Rosso captures all of Gaglioppo’s earthy goodness, offering a character-filled example of the varietal. The Liber Pater casts aromas of earthy cherry fruit infused with menthol, sappy juniper and hints of tar. The tarry, earthy, herbal bouquet segues to the wine’s jammy palate of ripe cherry and black currant fruit balanced by plentiful fine tannins. The Liber Pater’s finish is long and firm, revisiting the wine’s menthol, juniper and cherry notes while adding hints of bay leaf, smoky soil and licorice. Superb balance, bracing acidity and fine, food-friendly tannins make this a perfect match for pasta dishes, hearty vegetable casseroles, roasts of lamb or pork dishes, especially those prepared with the peppers that are so favored in Calabrian cuisine. Enjoy now or cellar three to seven years for the tannins to melt into the wine’s core of sappy cherry fruit.

ARGENTINA – RED

2007 Bodega Septima, Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 9.50/101.50
Located at 1,100 meters above sea level in the hallowed Mendoza region, the Bodegas Septima is the Argentine outpost of Spain’s great Codorníu Cava producer. Septima specializes in Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and, especially, Malbec. A deep black-plum color in the glass, Septima’s Malbec casts opulent aromas of black cherries, cassis and smoky vanillin oak. Lush on the attack, the wine stains the palate with dense, sappy blackberry fruit, fine tannins and brisk acidity. Clean, balanced and deft, the wine finishes long, spicy and ready for your next bite of grilled hanger steak, burgers, tapas, stews and hearty winter fare. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

WHITE WINES

CALIFORNIA – WHITE

2007 Stags’ Leap Winery, Viognier, Napa Valley, California 14.99/160.00 reg. 19.99
The venerable Stags’ Leap Winery stands on one of the Napa Valley’s earliest wine estates. While Stags’ Leap used Viognier for years as an accent for its exemplary Petite Sirah, it wasn’t until 1998 that the varietal received its own bottling. From the rocky soils of Stanly Ranch in the cool Carneros region, the 2007 Viognier shows the benefits of that long, dry growing season. A superb example of Napa Viognier the wine is impeccably balanced. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, the Viognier opens with aromas of pear blossoms, white rose petals and honeysuckle. Rich, ample and full on the palate, the wine offers suggestions of sweet orange, cinnamon stick and yellow peaches. Brisk and bracing on the back-palate thanks to blocked malolactic fermentation, the Stags’ Leap Viognier finishes clean and dry with suggestions of grapefruit and smoky soil. A steal at this price, enjoy the wine young with delicate freshwater fish dishes, grilled vegetables, or serve as a crowd-pleasing apéritif.

OREGON – WHITE

2007 St. Innocent, Pinot Gris, Vitae Springs Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
It’s no secret that Salem's St. Innocent Winery perennially produces some of the Willamette Valley’s finest Pinot Gris. Fascinated and inspired by the great Pinot Gris of Alsace, winemaker Mark Vlossak has fashioned another winner with his Alsatian-styled Pinot Gris from South Salem’s Vitae Springs Vineyard. Featuring a lemon gold color, the ’07 Vitae Springs jumps out of the glass with a classic, smoky, buttery nose that has become the hallmark of Oregon’s finest Pinot Gris. On the palate, the fruit is full and ample with notes of yellow plums, peaches, quince and pink grapefruit. Round in texture yet brisk, the ample palate segues to a long, dry finish featuring notes of gooseberries and fresh hops. This attention-grabbing Pinot Gris will work best at the table as a complement to classic Northwest fare such as broiled halibut and cedar-planked salmon. It will also pair with full bodied chicken and duck dishes. Drink now or over the next year or two.

AUSTRIA - WHITE

2008 Weingut Schwarzböck, Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria (1 liter) 11.99/128.00
Rudi and Anita Schwarzböck run this impeccable domaine on the outskirts of Vienna. From loess soils they produce this lovely liter of Grüner Veltliner that offers more refreshment per cubic centimeter than we can reasonably calculate. Classic lemon gold in the glass with green glints, the Schwarzböck Grüner casts classic notes of snap peas, chamomile, smoky gunpowder tea, fennel and white pepper. Crisp, refreshing, and a modest 12% alcohol, the wine finishes with salty minerality and Grüner pepper notes alongside lemony fruit and herbal top notes. In his delightful Austrian catalog, importer Terry Theise writes, “Take me to your liter.” Just drop us off with a bottle of this and we’ll be delighted. Enjoy now with everything from green vegetables to lentils to seafood to poultry.

FRANCE - WHITE

2007 Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Southern Rhône Valley, France 13.99/149.50
The great Guigal estate fashions the Rhone Valley’s most expensive wines and some of its finest values. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône Blanc reaches new heights in the classic, elegant 2007 vintage. A lovely lemon gold in the glass, Guigal’s ingenious blend emphasizes its base of Viognier (55%) with ripe, exotic, Condrieu-like aromas of honeysuckle, gardenia blossoms, apricot and sweet melon. Honeyed yet dry on the palate, the wine’s additional Roussanne and Marsanne components emerge with waxy richness and minerality, adding complex notes of peach, acacia and honeydew. The finish is long and complex beyond its modest price tag, offering sweet white flower notes accented by smoky minerals and suggestions of crisp green melon. A fascinating wine that will thrill fans of white Rhône Valley wines as well as newcomers to the genre. Enjoy now and over the coming year with delicate freshwater fish dishes, light poultry and as a delightful, out-of-the-ordinary apéritif.

2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix, Petit Chablis, Burgundy, France 14.99/160.00
2008 is shaping up to be a critically acclaimed Chablis vintage, one that combines the richness and power of 2005 and 2006 with the acidity and freshness of 2007. Following on the heels of last year’s success with Defaix’s Petit Chablis, we’re delighted to present his newly released 2008, a wine of extraordinary character and value from vineyards just on the outskirts of the Chablis region proper. Brilliant green-gold in the glass, Defaix’s Petit Chablis casts aromas of limestone, malt, flinty minerality and lemon curd. Brisk and racy on the attack, the Petit Chablis sets its intense mineral core inside a wrapper of buttery lemon curd and bracing gooseberry fruit. Classic and uncompromising, this Petit Chablis combines the region’s noble minerality with exceptionally focused and buffering lemony Chardonnay fruit. Perfect for oysters, clams, mussels, prawn and the entire spectrum of fish and shellfish. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

ITALY – WHITE

2008 Il Pareto, Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 12.99/139.00
With records dating back to 1670, Il Pareto is one of the oldest vineyards in all of Gavi. Produced exclusively from the indigenous Cortese grape, Gavi was Italy’s first DOCG white wine and still one of its finest. The Il Pareto offers us a textbook expression of Gavi, and offers it at a most comfortable tariff. The wine begins with a green-tinted, lemon-gold color and aromas of lemon curd, pine nuts, basil and minerals. The wine attacks first with crisp, juicy lemon fruit, but then broadens on the mid-palate to offer notes of Bartlett pears, white tea and sappy pine nuts. Il Pareto’s Gavi finishes crisp, rich and lip-smackingly delicious with notes of limestone minerality, quince and bitter almond skin, which gives the wine a special tactile grip and extra versatility at the table. Drink this classic Gavi young to capture its freshness, crispness and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper, vegetarian frittatas, seasonal squashes, clams and halibut.

2008 Pieropan, Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy 15.99/171.00 13.99/149.50
The great Pieropan estate is the Veneto’s leading light for top quality Soave. The estate’s crisp and classic 2008 release is a blend of 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano di Soave grown on superbly situated hillside vineyards in Soave’s prestigious Classico zone. In the glass, glints of green accent the wine’s brilliant lemon-gold color. The Pieropan’s cool, classic nose shows hints of lemon zest, buttered Anjou pears, and salty minerals. On the palate, the Soave is brisk and vibrant, with clear citrus fruit notes that complement an undercurrent of insistent minerality. The finish is brisk, long and satisfying, adding juicy grapefruit, a sappy almond note and bright, palate-cleansing acidity. Year in and year out, Pieropan’s expression of Soave is the reference standard, and this year they’ve hit another home run. Pair this with shellfish, trout, halibut, and pasta dishes with seafood and enjoy over the next two years.

• 2006 Ca Rugate, Valpolicella, Rio Alba, Veneto, Italy 10.99/117.50 reg. 14.99
• 2008 Michel Delhommeau, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Cuvée Harmonie, Loire Valley, France 13.50/144.50
• 2004 Tenuta di Arceno, PrimaVoce, Tuscany, Italy 11.99/128.00 reg. 16.99

*WHAT’S THIS? In response to your requests, we’re adding this symbol to identify wines that are naturally farmed.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

MIXED-CASE SAMPLER:
The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler

RED WINES:
2008 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir
2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurène
2005 Domaine Bressy-Masson Rasteau Côtes du Rhone Villages
2006 Vidal-Fleury Côtes-du-Ventoux
2005 Podere Capaccia Chianti Classico
2007 Brigaldara, Valpolicella Classico
2006 Cabano, Augurio, Provincia di Pavia IGT
2007 Vincenzo Ippolito Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore
2007 Bodega Septima Malbec Mendoza, Argentina

WHITE WINES:
2007 Stags’ Leap Winery Viognier
2007 St. Innocent Pinot Gris, Vitae Springs Vineyard
2008 Weingut Schwarzböck Grüner Veltliner
2007 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc
2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis
2008 Il Pareto Gavi
2008 Pieropan Soave Classico

WEB EXTRAS:
2006 Ca Rugate, Valpolicella Rio Alba
2008 Michel Delhommeau Muscadet
2004 Tenuta di Arceno PrimaVoce

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

October 2 It’s a Turley Zinfandel Tasting!

October 16 Great wines from Argentina’s top winemakers: Cheval des Andes, Colomé, Achaval-Ferrar, Catena Alta, and lots more.

November 6 Is there anything silkier, sexier and tastier than Volnay? Come and find out.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

October 3 Stella Schulte of Columbia-Admiralty Beverages will pour Pieropan Soave Classico, Stags’ Leap Winery Viognier, Domaine Drouhin Laurène, Bodega Septima Malbec, Vidal-Fleury Côtes-du-Ventoux, and Ca Rugate Valpolicella Rio Alba.

October 10 Chris Davis of Casa Bruno will pour the great Tuscan wines of Fattoria Felsina and their superb 2008 single varietal olive oils. At table two: Weingut Schwarzböck Grüner Veltliner, Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, and St. Innocent Pinot Gris Vitae Springs Vineyard.

October 17 Mamma Mia! Italian beauties from Il Pareto Gavi, Brigaldara Valpolicella, Vincenzo Ippolito Ciro Rosso, Cabanon Augurio, and Podere Capaccia Chianti Classico.

October 24 Dan Melia of Mosel Wine Merchants will be here to pour superb German dry Rieslings from the following wineries: Knebel, Lauer, Steinmetz, and Spater-Veit. Plus, The Great L&E Beaujolais sampler.

October 31 Vive la France: Michel Delhommeau Muscadet, Dom. Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis, Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc, and Dom. Bressy-Masson Rasteau.