|
FEBRUARY
2018 NEWSLETTER
RED WINES
OREGON
2016
Fossil & Fawn, Pinot Noir, Silvershot Vineyard, Eola-Amity
Hills, Oregon 22.99/248.29
Fossil & Fawn refers
to the marine sedimentary soils of the Silvershot vineyards
located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, and a nod to the family
horse that roamed the area. Employing native yeasts and
a minimalistic approach in the winery, Fossil & Fawn’s
2016 Silvershot Vineyard Pinot Noir casts brilliant garnet
color in the glass, followed by aromas of tart cranberries,
Morello cherries, mustard seed, and loamy earth. Earthy
again on the fore-palate, the wine segues to delicious expressions
of sappy pie cherry and crunchy cranberry fruit backed by
plentiful fine tannins, brisk acidity, herbs, and subtle
barrel tones. Deep soil notes and complex suggestions of
button mushrooms, blond leather, and sous bois complete
the wine and make it both immediately delicious and poised
for medium-term evolution. Enjoy this lovely, earthy, natural
Pinot now and over the coming five years with broiled salmon,
seared duck breast, roast chicken, and vegetarian recipes
featuring morel mushrooms, fingerling potatoes, or braised
lentils.
FRANCE
2015
Burle, Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone Valley, France 17.99/194.29
A perennial favorite in
these pages, Burle’s newly released 2015 Vacqueyras
highlights the harmony of the vintage’s perfect growing
season with a dense black-plum color and a bouquet filled
with notes of plum skin, licorice, parched earth, blood
oranges, smoky cured meat, black pepper, and garrigue. The
wine then stains the palate with deep, soulful expressions
of boysenberries and black cherries framed by chewy tannins
and savory notes of menthol, black pepper, lavender, and
juniper. Tarry black cherry fruit, black licorice, and lovely
mushroom notes mark the long, energetic finish. As with
the entire range of wines from the Burle portfolio, this
2015 Vacqueyras is traditionally crafted and an incredible
value. Enjoy now or over the coming six years with roast
leg of lamb, ratatouille, and recipes favoring rosemary
and fresh garlic.
2014
Mas d’Intras, La Cuvee d’Alphonse, Ardeche,
France (O) 11.50/124.20 
The Ardeche area between
the northern and southern Rhone Valleys is a little known
region with a long viticultural history. This is a area
of experimentation, with traditional Rhone varieties sharing
the stage with grapes from Burgundy and Bordeaux. What’s
wonderful is that this blend of tradition and progressiveness
succeeds, as evidenced by this bottle from Ardeche natives
Denis Robert and Sebastien Pradal. The dark ruby-colored
Cuvee d’Alphonse is an organically-grown blend of
Merlot (65%) and Syrah that seamlessly fuses the plum, cassis,
and chocolate notes of the Merlot with the tobacco, pepper,
violet, and leather nuances of the Syrah. The result is
a delicious, gulpable marvel that’s just the ticket
for your winter gatherings. Invite friends over, throw some
burgers or chops or Portobello mushrooms on the grill, pour
this wine, and celebrate the simple (and affordable) wonders
of life.
2016
Chateau Falfas, Cotes de Bourg, Les Demoiselles de Falfas,
Bordeaux, France (B) 19.99/215.89
The Right Bank appellation
of Cotes du Bourg fashions some of Bordeaux’s most
delicious, approachable and affordable expressions of Merlot.
Committed to biodynamic principles since 1988 – a
rarity in Bordeaux – the Chateau Falfas is considered
one of the Cotes du Bourg’s finest vineyard sites.
Crafted to be enjoyed in its youth, Falfas’s Demoiselles
cuvee is a young-vine blend of Merlot (75%) and Cabernet
Sauvignon. A beautiful young claret color, the Demoiselles
opens with high-toned aromas of cassis, black raspberries,
and gravelly soil. Deft yet silky on the palate, the Demoiselles
conveys its natural, biodynamic origins with a hint of wild
yeast funk that leads to soil-driven expressions of plum
and cassis fruit. Hints of earth, mushrooms, and violets
emerge on the wine’s delicious, satisfying finish.
This is pure, unadorned, unpretentious, and remarkably versatile
Bordeaux that’s ready for your table, served with
everyday dishes like burgers, pan-seared pork chops, mac
’n’ cheese, lentils, and grilled Portobello
mushrooms. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years.
2015
Chateau du Hureau, Saumur-Champigny, Tuffe, Loire Valley,
France (O) 15.99/172.69
The gorgeous Cabernet Francs
of Saumur-Champigny can be expensive and take years to mature,
or they can deliver an immediate and delicious mouthful
of soul-satisfying Cabernet Franc laced with the Saumur’s
inimitable yellow limestone (tuffeau) soil signature. This
beauty from Chateau du Hureau lands firmly in the second
camp. The Chateau’s Tuffe bottling offers a pure,
perfumed bouquet of violets, dusty tuffeau soil, tobacco,
herbs, and capsicum followed by a generous palate of tangy
black cherry and cassis fruit. Smoky, leathery, both serious
and gulpable, Hureau’s Tuffe is ready to grace your
table with all the character and perfumed terroir of the
Loire Valley’s Saumur sector. This is a ridiculous
value selection that promises year-round versatility. Pair
in cool weather with roast chicken or hearty mushroom dishes,
or give it a light chill in the summer and serve it with
grilled zucchini, barbecue chicken, ribs, and fresh chevres.
2016
Thevenet & Fils, Bourgogne Rouge, Les Clos, Burgundy,
France 18.99/205.09
This is gorgeous, soil-driven, single-vineyard
Pinot Noir from the southern reaches of Burgundy and a steal
for its modest tariff. Jean-Claude Thevenet’s superb
Macon and Saint-Veran always resonate with our discerning
Burgundy clientele. This month we present Thevenet’s
sole red wine, sourced from a superbly situated single vineyard
in the village of Bussieres. A brilliant garnet color in
the glass, Thevenet’s Les Clos presents dusty, soil-inflected,
authentically Burgundian aromas of cranberries, black raspberries,
earth, and orange peel. Chewy and sappy on the palate, the
wine alternates vivid impressions of Bing cherries, tangy
raspberries, soft tannins, and dusty limestone soil. Bright
minerals, balancing acidity, and appetizing bitter herbal
notes carry the wine to its long, savory finish. Pair now
and over the next three years with poultry, pork, stews,
and rich recipes featuring morel mushrooms.
ITALY
2015
Vallana, Spanna, Colline Novaresi, Piedmont, Italy 18.99/205.09
Renowned for intense, characterful,
long lived wines from the Alto Piemonte, Vallana’s
Spanna is a 100% Nebbiolo vinified traditionally in cement
and aged six months in large oak casks. A beautiful black
cherry color in the bowl, swirl the Spanna vigorously to
coax its lovely aromas of pomegranate, orange oil, smoky
soil, salumi, and white pepper. On the palate, pomegranate
and cherry fruit join with plentiful old-school tannins,
balancing acidity, and complex notes of orange-scented potpourri,
tobacco, mushrooms, and ferrous soils. Long, zesty, and
brimming with character, this is a superb and unusually
affordable expression of Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo. Pair this
beauty with both classic hearty Piemontese cuisine and with
everyday fare such as pizza, pasta, burgers, and pork chops.
2014
Rapalino, Barbera d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont,
Italy 14.99/161.89
Federico Rapalino’s
exemplary Barbera is among our customers’ most beloved
wines and one of the most successful selections in our newsletter
history. Rapalino’s transparent black plum-colored
2014 Barbera casts an earthy nose of blackberries, violets,
leather, and dark tobacco. Brisk and vivacious, the wine’s
tart blackberry and black currant fruit is complemented
by complex hints of tar, leather, tobacco, and button mushrooms.
Fans know that Pian Romualdo is one of Barbera’s grand
cru sites, and in every vintage Rapalino’s expression
confirms the vineyard’s exalted status. Delicious
now with braised beef, oven-roasted root vegetables, egg-rich
pastas, or grilled pork, the wine will also cellar well
for five to seven years. As it matures, the 2014 Barbera’s
mushroomy, tertiary notes will blossom and amplify.
2015
Canalicchio, di Sopra, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 19.99/215.89
This is textbook Rosso
di Montalcino; the kind that gives one a clear glimpse into
just how fabulous the wines of Montalcino are. We’ve
long admired the pure, unadorned, old-school wines made
by Franco Pacenti at Canalicchio, and this terrific Rosso
di Montalcino is yet another in the long line of successes
issued by the estate. Rosso di Montalcino is Brunello’s
little brother, a wine made with all the distinctive character
that comes from Montalcino soil and the Brunello clone of
Sangiovese, intended to be enjoyed at a younger age. The
Canalicchio’s 2015 Rosso displays a beautiful, transparent,
mahogany-tinged garnet robe and bright, perfumed nose of
black cherries, violets, leather, and Medoc-like pencil
lead. The Rosso’s pure fruit – unfettered by
any oak influence – stains the palate with notes of
damson plum, dusty earth, leather, bitter herbs, and chocolate.
The wine finishes long and complete, with plentiful fine
tannins and just enough acidity to rein in its round, generous
texture. It will drink well for three to five years with
traditional Tuscan fare, especially hearty pastas, grilled
beef, and roast pork.
SPAIN
2014
Ronsel do Sil, Mencia, Vel’uveyra, Ribeira Sacra,
Galicia, Spain (S)
18.99/205.09
Grown on steep, terraced
granite slopes in far northern Spain, the Ribeira Sacra
boasts a winemaking history that goes back to Roman times.
The difficulty of working these slopes caused many of the
region’s finest vineyards to be abandoned in the 20th
century. Fortunately for wine lovers, these terraced slopes
are being rediscovered and rededicated to the production
of wine. High above the River Sil, Maria Jose Yravedra lovingly
crafts a complete portfolio of Ribeira Sacra’s finest
wines. Her Vel’uveyra (“gaze at the vineyard”
in ancient Galician dialect) is crafted from 100% Mencia
grown at 1,000-1,500 feet above sea level. A crimson-tinged
ruby hue in the glass, Ronsel do Sil’s Vel’uveyra
Mencia casts smoky, granite-inflected aromas of black cherries,
licorice, and violets. Light, silky, and transparent in
the mouth, the wine balances bright cherry and raspberry
fruit with savory tannins, vivifying acidity, and lovely
kiss of French oak. Smoky, meaty, and refreshing, the Vel’uveyra
finishes with added suggestions of cracked pepper, anise,
cinnamon, tobacco, and persistent waves of smoky cherry
fruit. This is one delicious and drinkable wine that will
make a lovely partner over the coming three years for paellas,
tapas, grilled mushrooms and meats, and braised rabbit.
WHITE WINES
AUSTRIA
2016
Nigl, Gruner Veltliner, Freiheit, Kremstal, Austria (S)
18.99/205.09
2016 is shaping up to be
a classic Austrian vintage. Nigl, unquestionably one of
Austria’s elite estates, crafts focused, chiseled
wines of impeccable detail and transparency, and this is
their finest Freiheit in years. From the deep Löss
soils on which Gruner Veltliner thrives, the 2016 Freiheit
conveys the shimmering acidity, transparent clarity, and
persistent mineral tension that we so adore. The wine casts
a pale green-gold hue followed by crystalline aromas of
honeysuckle blossoms, jasmine, lentils, and white pepper.
Nigl’s Gruner strikes the palate with pure, mineral-driven
green melon, lime, and gooseberry fruit accented by suggestions
of sweet snap peas, blond tobacco, and lemon thyme. Brilliant
acidity transitions the Freiheit to its long, zippy finish,
which features echoing waves of deep Löss minerality
and brisk impressions of citrus and melon fruits. Enjoy
the wine now or over the coming two years with sauteed green
vegetables, grilled zucchini, braised pork, and roast chicken.
FRANCE
2016
Domaine de la Bregeonnette, Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur
Lie,
Loire Valley, France (O) 13.99/151.09
Located in Vallet, the
heart of the Muscadet zone, Domaine de la Bregeonnette’s
organic vines grow on a soil rich in mica-schist, which
imparts the wine with great purity, fruitiness, and minerality.
Pale green-tinted lemon-gold in the glass, the 2016 Muscadet
bursts with classic, briny Muscadet aromas of lemon zest,
lime juice, green apple skin, and iodine. Brisk and juicy,
the wine layers the palate with mineral-driven citrus fruit
accented by hints of lemongrass, menthol, and medicinal
herbs. Fresh and invigorating, the wine finishes with vibrant
preserved lemon and quince fruit, lemon balm, and pungent
schistose minerals. Pair now and over the coming five years
with all things shellfish, seasonal squashes, freshwater
fish dishes in a beurre blanc sauce, seafood pastas, lightly
dressed salads, and braised leafy greens like chard and
kale. This is superb, refreshing Muscadet that’s impeccably
made and a joy to drink!
2016
Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy,
France 27.99/302.29
The 2016 Paul Pernot Bourgogne
Chardonnay is at once rich, textured, and precise, conveying
premier cru intensity and soil transparency rarely found
in such an affordably priced Cote-de-Beaune blanc. Fashioned
from declassified Puligny-Montrachet vines on the Meursault
border, the wine opens with a lemon-gold color in the glass
followed by rich, golden, Meursault-like aroma of lemon
curd, hazelnuts, Brazil nuts, and subtle French oak inflections.
Long, sappy, and packed with limestone-infused impressions
of fresh lemon juice, acacia blossoms, and buttery pastry
crust, Pernot’s Bourgogne blanc finishes elegant,
rich, and incredibly well balanced. In addition, palpable
limestone mineral undercurrent persists from start to finish.
Enjoy this beauty now and over the coming decade with roast
pork, veal, poultry, white-fleshed fish dishes, and young
chevres. Very limited – especially in the short 2016
Burgundy vintage – so be sure to call early to secure
your case of this beauty.
2015
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France
59.99/615.49
What a treat it is to be
able to secure enough of this impressive Puligny-Montrachet
to feature it in these pages! Puligny is white Burgundy’s
most prestigious village and home to four grand cru vineyards.
Drouhin’s 2015 Puligny casts a classic green-gold
white Burgundy robe and fills the room with grand cru scents
of yellow apples, raw hazelnuts, limestone minerals, and
barrel tones of vanilla and toffee. On the palate, Drouhin’s
Puligny is rich, intense, and packed with pear, yellow plum,
and citrus fruits. Its wonderful, resinous palate texture
gives way to a long, luxurious, mineral-infused finish.
Secure your case now to enjoy this winter and over the coming
fifteen years with roast chicken, pork, halibut, and snapper.
Please do not delay, as these 12 cases will be gone in a
flash.
NV
(2016) Domaine Leon Boesch, Edelzwicker, Alsace, France
(B)
15.99/172.69 (1 liter)
The family Boesch are eleventh-generation
Alsatian vignerons who adhere to the mystical principles
of biodynamics to grow and vinify their exemplary range
of traditional varietal wines. A blend of Sylvaner, Pinot
Blanc, and Muscat, Boesch’s exotic, aromatic Edelzwicker
(“noble blend”) combines leftover wines from
the domaine’s finest parcels into a delicious, affordable
cuvee. Deep green-gold in the glass Boesch’s Edelzwicker
casts captivating aromas of muskmelon, passion fruit, pineapple,
smoky minerals, lychee, and sweet spices. Fresh and brimming
with energy, the wine presents an amalgam of Alsatian goodness
with white pepper and botrytis-driven citrus and orchard
fruit backed by suggestions of lemongrass, fennel, and freshly
grated ginger. Serve this delicious and versatile wine year
’round with pates, terrines, firm and washed rind
cheeses, choucroute garnie with sauerkraut, and savory cuisines
from Alsace, Germany, and central Europe. Far more serious
than most Edelzwickers, Boesch’s beauty sports a laughably
low price and is packaged in a handy one-liter bottle to
boot!
2016
Domaine du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur Blanc, La Pierre Frite,
Loire Valley, France (CO) 15.99/172.69
In the heart of Saumur, Laurent Charrier
and his mother run the Domaine du Pas Saint Martin producing
an impressive and complete portfolio of central Loire Valley
wines. The Charriers’ Saumur blanc La Pierre Frite,
fashioned from Chenin Blanc grown organically on silica-rich
limestone soils, is given extended ageing on its lees to
enrich the wine’s palate texture and express the Saumur’s
special terroir. Pale straw-gold in color, the wine shows
the incredible purity of the 2016 vintage with aromas of
Bartlett pear and honeydew melon complicated by notes of
iodine, freesia, and gardenia blossom. On the palate, juicy
acidity drives the wine’s core of melon, pear, and
kiwi, while brisk acidity amplifies the wine’s smoky
tuffeau limestone soil signature. Further notes of green
pineapple and Pippin apple flesh complete the wine as it
finishes long and complicated by the vineyard’s special
flint-and-limestone terroir. This is splendid, expressive
Saumur blanc that’s ready to drink now partnered with
everything from bivalves to cephalopods to halibut to sauteed
zucchini to light poultry recipes.
HUNGARY
2014
Kiralyudvar, Tokaji Furmint, Sec, Tokaji, Hungary (B) 19.99/215.89
Kiralyudvar (kee-rye-oohd-var)
is the crown jewel estate of Hungary’s legendary Tokaji
region, and their 2014 Tokaji Furmint Sec is simply sensational.
Casting a deep lemon-gold color in the glass, Kiralyudvar’s
Furmint Sec opens to reveal the high-toned bee pollen, honeycomb,
and white meadow flower aromas. Brisk acidity and a generous
core of lemon, bitter orange, and white grapefruit grace
the palate alongside a riveting flinty mineral undercurrent.
A blend of Furmint (80%) and Harslevelu, the wine develops
a fascinating resinous texture on the palate, which follows
through to a long, clean finish suggesting orange blossom
water, quinine, and nutmeg. We recommend pairing Kiralyudvar’s
Furmint Sec with young and mature goat cheeses, braised
pork, tapas featuring smoked paprika, and assertive Hungarian
fare such as goulash. A stunning wine of great character
and depth – and a must try!
ITALY
2016
Matteo Correggia, Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy (O) 14.99/161.89
A guiding light for the
renaissance of quality in the Piedmont’s Roero district,
the legacy of the late Matteo Correggia shines brightly
with this reference standard Arneis grown on sandy soils
northwest of the Langhe. A pale lemon-gold color with green
reflections, Correggia’s 2016 Arneis bursts with aromas
of juicy peaches, ripe apricots, honeydew melon, sultanas,
and jasmine blossoms. Vibrant and fleshy on the palate,
Correggia’s Arneis conveys a flinty soil undercurrent
wrapped inside deep expressions of ripe melon, apricot,
and peach fruit. Notes of dried apricots and peaches re-emerge
on the wine’s long, juicy finish leaving the palate
lingering with complex suggestions of fresh mint, almond
skin, and dusty soil. Enjoy this delightful bianco now and
over the coming year and with all things seafood, seasonal
squashes, fresh cheeses, and white pasta preparations.
SPAIN
2015
Bodegas Muga, Blanco, Rioja, Spain 13.99/151.09
Perhaps the Bodegas’
most distinctive wine is its resinous barrel-aged Blanco.
Muga’s 2015 Blanco fuses Viura (90%) with a blend
of Malvasia and Garnacha Blanco, all fermented and aged
in oak. Like other great Rioja blancos, the Viura effortlessly
absorbs the wood and seamlessly integrates its flavors into
the wine. The waxy, honeycomb nuances of the Viura are accented
by the exotic, floral notes of the wine’s nominal
(but aromatically significant) Malvasia component. This
barrel fermentation and aging provides the wine with additional
texture, grip, and delicious vanilla and spice accents.
Enjoyable now, Muga’s Blanco is poised for another
decade of ageing. Perfect for Manchego cheese, tapas, paellas,
braised pork, and potato dishes, the wine is a wonder for
food versatility. Alongside the reservas and gran reservas
from Lopez de Heredia, this Muga is one of the truly great
examples of Rioja blanco, and one of our very favorite Spanish
wines.
|