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JUNE 2018 NEWSLETTER

 

RED WINES

OREGON

2016 Broadley Vineyards, Pinot Noir Estate, Willamette Valley, Oregon (S)
23.99/259.09

Broadley Vineyards, founded in 1981, has a stellar track record of crafting exemplary Pinot Noirs. Broadley’s chewy, delicious 2016 Estate cuvee – crafted from a blend of old and young vines – opens with a translucent crimson-ruby robe and dusty aromas of cranberries, red raspberries, and dried herbs. Brisk with acidity yet juicy and generous on the palate, soft tannins frame the wine’s kernel of sour cherry and cranberry fruit alongside suggestions of herbs, vanilla bean, toffee, earth, and cinnamon. The wine finishes fresh and ample with reprises of red fruits accented by a pleasant savory note that makes it especially food friendly. Broadley’s 2016 Estate Pinot is ready for your table tonight with burgers, roast chicken, turkey, duck, and vegetarian lasagna. It will also repay five to seven years aging in your cool cellar. Another terrific effort from Broadley!


FRANCE

2015 Philippe Ravier, Vin de Savoie, Mondeuse, Savoie, France (S) 14.99/161.89

Mondeuse, the cool, elusive, peppery red grape of the Savoie, has recently been confirmed to be a relative of the noble Syrah of the Northern Rhone Valley. Father-and-son team of Philippe and Sylvain Ravier work the family’s 86-acre estate with holdings in many of the Savoie’s most esteemed crus. The Raviers’ 2015 Mondeuse casts a beautiful translucent cherry robe and spicy aromas of white pepper, violets, black cherries, and tobacco. On the palate, the wine alternates waves of tart cherry and plum fruit with complex undertones of bergamot, mesquite smoke, and limestone soil. Long and lingering on the back-palate, reprises of cranberries and crunchy cherries mingle with a bright acid backbone, fine, buffered tannins, and finishing notes of medicinal herbs, geranium, and freshly cracked black pepper. While the peppery connection to Syrah is undeniable, we find Ravier’s Mondeuse far brighter, zestier, and food versatile. Enjoy this affordable wonder now and over the coming three years with roast poultry (especially small game, duck and goose), washed-rind cheeses, potatoes au gratin, vegetable souffles, and dishes featuring wild mushrooms and rich cream sauces.

2016 Domaine de Fenouillet, Ventoux, Southern Rhone Valley, France (O)
13.50/145.80

Brothers Patrick and Vincent Soard own and operate the impeccable Domaine de Fenouillet, based in the hallowed Cotes-du-Rhone village of Beaumes de Venise. The Ventoux AOC, named for nearby Mont Ventoux, is located twenty-five miles northeast of Avignon and features many of the same grape varieties as the Southern Rhone Valley. Fenouillet’s 2015 Ventoux, a blend of Grenache (75%), Syrah (20%), and Carignan, casts a translucent purple-ruby robe followed by aromas of Provençal cherries, peppery salumi, smoked game, garrigue, and stony terroir. Chewy and substantial, the wine stains the palate with deep expressions of black cherry and brambly blackberry fruit accented by suggestions of bitter orange peel, bay leaf, button mushrooms, cinnamon, and cloves. Fine tannins frame the wine’s dense but fresh fruit expressions, and segue the Ventoux to its long, spicy, herbal finish. This is a superb and smartly priced selection that will pair well with grilled and barbecued meats this summer and over then coming three years.

2015 Domaine Morey, Luberon Bastide du Claux, Malacare, Provence, France 16.99/183.49

The Bastide du Claux project was born in 2002 to fuse Chassagne-Montrachet native Sylvain Morey’s traditional Burgundian winemaking aesthetic with Southern Rhone varieties found in the dynamic Luberon AOC. The domaine’s Malacare cuvee hails from 50-year-old Syrah (60%), Grenache (25%), and Carignan vines planted on southwest-facing slopes of sandy soils. Casting a beautiful black cherry robe, the Malacare blossoms with scents of violets, plum, and herbal garrigue. On the palate, the Malacare layers chewy cherry, plum, and fig fruit buttressed by firm, food-friendly tannins alongside hints of black olives, game, and orange peel. Limestone dust and garrigue segue the Malacare to its long, elegant, vibrant finish. Pair this superb Burgundy-inspired rouge now and over the coming three years with roast leg of lamb, ratatouille, burgers or steaks hot off the grill, and for any recipe that calls for a lusty, soul-warming Provençal red wine.

ITALY

2013 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 31.99/345.49

Fattoria di Petroio’s 2013 Riserva continues our love for the estate’s wines and the lauded 2013 Tuscan vintage. The wine casts an opaque mahogany-tinged cherry robe and a complex, delicious bouquet of Bing cherries, ripe figs, leather, mushroom, pencil lead, and dusty limestone. Hailing from the prestigious Castelnuovo Berardenga village in the very south of the Chianti Classico zone, the wine’s pure, elegant core of cherry and red plum fruit marries with tangy acidity, a wave of ultrafine Sangiovese tannins, and classic suggestions of tar, tobacco, herbs, almond skin, and dusty earth. Reserved, coiled, and packed with fruit, Petroio’s 2013 Riserva finishes long and charming with complex notes of tar, leather, tobacco, and cherries. Pair this beauty now with hearty pastas, roasts and rustic casseroles featuring tomato, zucchini, and potatoes. It will also reward five to ten years’ patience in your cool cellar and evolve into an ideal partner for dry-aged Porterhouse steaks and other hearty fare. Yet another stellar success from Petroio!

2016 Francesco Brigatti Colline Novaresi Uva Rara "Selvalunga," Piedmont, Italy (O) 15.99/172.69

The elusive Uva Rara is predominantly employed as a blending grape in Italy’s Oltrepò Pavese and Alto Piemonte zones. Brigatti’s Selvalunga, the first 100% varietal Uva Rara we’ve had the privilege to taste, reflects a lovely transparent cherry color in the glass alongside bright, inviting aromas of pie cherries, strawberries, sweet cinnamon, and bitter orange peel. Fresh and spicy on the palate, hints of white pepper, cinnamon, medicinal herbs, vine stems, and pipe tobacco balance the wine’s effusive core of sweet cherry and strawberry fruit. Beautiful floral impressions segue the Selvalunga to its long, brisk, savory finish. This is a fascinating wine and a must-try selection. Pair it now and over the next two years with ribs, veal chops, mild Asian cuisines, braised Swiss chard, sauteed lentils, and, of course, pizzoccheri. Put a chill on it!

2016 Luigi Giordano, Langhe Rosso, Piedmont, Italy 16.99/183.49

With vineyards in the prestigious Asili, Montestefano, and Cavanna crus, the Luigi Giordano estate is best known for its traditionally styled Barbarescos. Giordano’s Langhe Rosso is a co-fermented blend of Nebbiolo (90%) and Arneis hailing from vineyards situated within the Barbaresco zone. A transparent, orange-tinged garnet in the glass, Giordano’s Rosso reveals elegant aromas of rose petals, pie cherries, plums, fresh fennel, and Chinese five spice. Light, bright, and energetic on the palate, Giordano’s Rosso delicately unfurls red cherry and raspberry fruit accented by notes of red currants, pomegranate seeds, tobacco, licorice, and botanical herbs. The Arneis seems to soften the Nebbiolo’s stern nature, and the duet harmonizes beautifully on the palate with a deftness that makes the Rosso irresistible and eminently gulpable. Conveying a wonderful textural juxtaposition among floral, juicy, bitter and salty sensations, Giordano’s Rosso will prove immensely versatile at the table. Pair it now and over the coming three years with pretty much everything but seafood and acidic vegetables.

SPAIN

2014 Bodegas Martínez-Corta, Rioja Crianza, "Soros," Rioja, Spain 16.99/183.49

The pride of the Martínez-Corta estate is its vineyard, the Soros pago. Boasting especially chalky soil, the Soros pago is poor in organic matter, which forces its 60+-year-old vines to dig deep into the earth for hydration and nourishment, and thus for flavor. Opaque black-plum in the glass, Martínez-Corta’s Soros casts cool aromas of black cherry, cassis, baker’s chocolate, and violets. Well structured with brisk Tempranillo acidity and refined tannins, the Soros layers nuances of figs, currants, and cherries underpinned by a current of stony, dusty minerals. Hints of tobacco, oak spice, and smoke segue to the wine to its long, tensile finish. Pair this lithe, chalky Rioja beauty now and over the coming two years with mushroom and vegetable tapas, standing rib roasts of beef, hearty stews, and burgers or marinated Portobellos hot off the grill.

WHITE WINES

FRANCE

2016 Philippe Ravier, Vin de Savoie, Apremont, Savoie, France (S) 11.50/124.20

Dry and refreshing, Philippe Ravier’s Apremont is simply a glorious white for year ’round enjoyment. Like the Cotes du Rhone-Villages, the Vin de Savoie A.O.P. allows certain outstanding villages to append their esteemed names to lend special emphasis to the region’s wines. Apremont is one such exemplary village in the Savoie. Fashioned exclusively from the indigenous Jacquere grape, this low alcohol refresher brings to mind crisp alpine breezes and cool, pure mountain spring water. A gleaming lemon-gold in the glass, Ravier’s Apremont presents a crisp, inviting bouquet of greengage plums, papaya, alpine herbs, and flinty minerals. On the palate, the wine follows with zesty, lip-smacking expressions of gooseberries, green apple skin, lemon balm, and limestone dust. This delightful Vin de Savoie will prove an outstanding choice as an aperitif and a natural complement to smoked trout, white-fleshed fish dishes in a beurre blanc sauce, oysters, salads, fondue, and cheeses featuring Tomme de Savoie, young Gruyere, and other semi-firm cow’s milk cheeses from the region. Enjoy now and over the coming year.

2016 Domaine Sangouard-Guyot, Macon-Villages, Clos de la Bressande, Burgundy, France (S) 14.99/161.89

Third-generation Burgundian vigneron Pierre-Emmanuel Sangouard farms twenty-five acres in the Maconnais’ most hallowed terroirs. From a superb 2.5 acre parcel in the village of Hurigny, Sangouard spotlights the Clos de la Bressande cru’s superb aspect and classic clay-limestone soil in this delicious Macon-Villages. A bright, golden color in the glass, Sangouard’s Clos de la Bressande brilliantly expresses its Maconnais origins with high-toned white Burgundy aromas of clay-limestone soil, lemon zest, and pate brisee. Crisp, lemony, and stony on the palate, the wine suffuses its juicy core of green plum and golden apple fruit with mineral undercurrents, balancing acidity, and complex notes of sweet butter and raw almonds. Vinified in stainless steel, the wine finishes long and tangy with persistent echoes of its calcareous terroir. As with all selections in Sangouard’s portfolio, this is superb, terroir-driven white Burgundy and a terrific value. It will wow as a welcome wine now and over the next three years, and perform as a lovely foil for herb-roasted chicken, trout amandine, chanterelles in a cream sauce, and light pork preparations.

2015 J. Drouhin Pouilly-Vinzelles, Burgundy, France 19.99/215.89

The Maconnais’ Pouilly-Vinzelles appellation is perhaps less famous than its neighbor, Pouilly-Fuisse, but the zone’s steep clay-limestone slopes and relatively high altitude impart impressive freshness into its classically Burgundian Chardonnays. In the critically acclaimed 2015 vintage, Drouhin has fashioned a remarkably crisp and classic Pouilly-Vinzelles that’s unusually lithe and savory (the way we like it). The 2015 Pouilly-Vinzelles sports a lovely pale lemon-gold color in the glass followed by aromas of perfumed limestone, honeysuckle, apple blossoms, and fresh lemon juice. On the palate, the wine is zesty and energetic, with suggestions of green almonds, white flowers, lemon zest, and sweet cinnamon amplified by lilting acidity and a vibrant undercurrent of saline oyster shell minerality. A haunting echo of raw hazelnuts marks the wine’s long lip-smacking finish. Enjoy this lovely, authentic, reasonably-priced white Burgundy now and over the coming five years with salmon, pork, roast chicken, duck, boudin blanc, and light pork dishes.

NV (2016) Emile Balland Sauvignon, "En Attendant les Beaux Jours,"
Vin de France (Loire Valley), France | 12.99/140.29

In the early morning of April 27th, 2016, the Belland estate lost 80% of its harvest when frost descended on his vines that were just sending out spring buds. In this devastating year, Emile added on "En Attendant" (waiting for) to his usual "Les Beaux Jours" (beautiful days) name for this delicious Sauvignon Blanc. A classic pale-green-gold color, Belland’s En Attendant casts flint-infused aromas of Mirabelle plums, fresh grass, basil, and Serrano peppers. Fresh and minerally, the En Attendant shows impressive harmony with its deep mineral undercurrents buoying crisp impressions of lime, lemon, gooseberries, and greengage plums. Impressions of freshly cut basil, chervil, and savory join with juicy citrus fruits on the wine’s long, resinous finish. Impeccably balanced and oh-so-drinkable, pair this beauty now and over the coming two years with sauteed green vegetables, fresh oysters, clams, mussels, freshwater fishes with a beurre blanc sauce, and as a revivifying aperitif after a hard day’s work.

ITALY

2016 Malvira, Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy (O) 17.99/194.29

Arneis champions Roberto and Massimo Damonte of the Malvira estate fashion their superb, aromatic Arneis from 25 to 35-year-old organic vineyards on the sandy soils of Piedmont’s Roero district. A lovely, limpid lemon gold in the glass, Malvira’s Arneis blossoms with a bouquet of green apples, Comice pears, fresh fennel, and chalky minerals. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, but with unusual depth for Arneis, the wine offers suggestions of fresh apricot, tangerine, white peaches, and sweet almonds, all buoyed by electric acidity and savory notes of white pepper and dried bay leaf. Fresh, delicious, impressively complex, and a terrific value, this classic Arneis warrants pairing now and over the next two to three years with delicate white-fleshed fish preparations, light pastas, seasonal squashes, and vegetarian risottos.

2016 Bisci, Verdicchio di Matelica, Marches, Italy (O) 14.99/161.89

Inland from Italy’s Adriatic coast and boasting some of the Marches’ highest altitude vineyards, the Matelica zone is renowned for Verdicchios with more flesh and body than elsewhere in the region. Bisci’s 2016 Verdicchio di Matelica reveals a deep lemon-gold color and a mineral-driven nose of white flowers, green apple skin, lime zest, and chervil. Crisp yet ample on the palate, the Bisci’s Verdicchio teems with notes of honeydew melon, honeysuckle, hawthorn blossoms, and lip-dusting minerals. As the wine finishes, its gripping palate texture gives way to delicious suggestions of kiwi, sea breeze, fennel bulb, and fresh herbs. Refined, elegant, thirst quenching, and oh-so-satisfying, Bisci’s Verdicchio is a splendid summer wine for sipping by itself, but it’s ideally paired with myriad seafood and summer vegetable preparations.

PORTUGAL

2017 Anselmo Mendes, Alvarinho "Contacto," Vinho Verde, Portugal 18.99/205.09

Anselmo Mendes is unquestionably one of the most esteemed producers in Portugal’s Vinho Verde zone. Mendes’s 2017 Alvarinho (Albarino) Contacto – grown exclusively in Monção and Melgaço – is given extended skin contact to coax greater depth, character, and intensity from Vinho Verde’s noblest and most distinctive grape. Dazzlingly aromatic, Mendes’s Contacto greets the palate with an intense kernel of pineapple, yellow plum, and tangerine fruit complicated by overtones of bergamot, quinine and menthol. Electric acidity and a deep granitic mineral undercurrent drive the wine’s yellow-fruited core and segue it to a long, zesty, citrus-driven finish. Pair this amazing wine now and over the coming two to three years with seafood and vegetable paella, vegetable and seafood tapas, sushi and sashimi, and seafood pastas. One more reason to join the Iberian wine revolution!

SPAIN

2017 Mokoroa, Getariako Txakolina, Basque Country, Spain 15.99/172.69

Situated just outside of San Sebastián on the coast in the Urteta section of Zarautz, Mokoroa’s seventeen acres of Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza vines are planted in the famous Getariako Txakolina D.O. A shimmering green-tinted lemon color in the bowl, Mokoroa’s Txakoli opens with aromas of lime juice, lemon zest, honeysuckle blossoms, and saline minerals. Taut, fresh, and invigorating, Mokoroa’s Txakoli enlivens the palate with suggestions of key lime juice, green apple skin, gardenia blossom, and sea spray. The wine finishes fresh, saline, and vigorous with layers of citrus zest, crushed juniper berries, quinine, and freshly grated ginger. A very distinctive, crisp, and refreshing Txakoli – and an outstanding value for its denominacion – this is a superb choice for summertime refreshment or for partnering with acidic vegetables, grilled asparagus, fresh and steamed shellfish, light squid tapas, ceviches, and poached white-fleshed fish dishes.

2017 Huguet de Can Feixes, Blanc Seleccio, Penedes, Spain (CO) 13.50/145.80

The historic Can Feixes estate is situated on gravelly amphitheater-like slopes near the famous Montserrat pinnacle. Only the estate’s finest high-altitude fruit – a blend of primarily Parellada and Macabeo with dollops of Chardonnay and Malvasia de Sitges – goes into Can Feixes’ Blanc Seleccio. In the glass, the wine casts a crisp pale green-glinted, lemon-gold hue followed by mineral driven aromas of kaffir lime leaves, green melon, Bartlett pears, quinine, and fresh ginger root. On the palate, brisk acidity elevates the wine’s refreshing core of citrus, melon, and crisp pear fruit. The Blanc Seleccío finishes with lingering hints of juicy white grapefruit, wintergreen, oregano, juniper, and flinty minerals. Enjoy this crisp, zesty refresher now and over the coming two years as a wonderful alternative to old-school Chablis, Aligote, or Sancerre. Pair it with oysters, white-fleshed fish selections, scallops, seafood and vegetable tapas, and fresh goat cheeses.


ROSE WINES

AUSTRIA

2017 Judith Beck, "Beck Pink," Burgenland, Austria (B) 12.99/140.29

Judith Beck, a staunch advocate for biodynamic winemaking, crafts her rose exclusively from Austria’s favorite and most widely planted red wine grape, Zweigelt. The 2017 Beck Pink rose reflects a pale salmon color and captivating nose of Rainier cherry fruit accented by white pepper, salumi, and blond leather. Fresh and zippy on the palate, Beck’s rose presents a zesty core of green strawberry and brambly raspberry fruit followed by impressive acidity and tactile grip. Impressions of peppery salumi, Szechuan peppercorns, sarsaparilla, and chalky earth linger as the wine finishes. This wine is fabulous: a perfect choice for a zesty summer rose that drinks well fully chilled and at cool cellar temperature. Pair now and over the coming two years with picnic fare, barbecued ribs, pulled pork sliders, broiled salmon, and grilled marinated Portobello mushrooms.

FRANCE

2017 Chateau Margui, Coteaux Varois en Provence, "Perle de Margui," Provence, France (O) 19.99/215.89

Each and every year, Margui’s quintessentially Provençal rose is one of our most anticipated and successful roses. A blend of organically grown Cinsault (40%), Grenache (40%), Syrah (10%) and Vermentino, Margui’s rose stuns in the 2017 vintage with a delicate salmon hue, ineffable Provençal herbal nose, and sappy kernel of wild berry fruit. On the nose, aromas of white currants, golden raspberries, wild yeast top notes, and herbal garrigue join overtones of smoky, stony Provençal soil. On the palate, Provençal suggestions of oil-cured olives, white pepper, lavender, and Seville orange peel fuse seamlessly with the wine’s core of currant, cherry, and blood orange fruit. In sum, this year’s Perle de Margui embodies precisely what defines Provence’s greatest roses: the crispness and refreshment of a great white wine with the depth and grip of a great red. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with everything from the sea, river and lake, plus pork, poultry, light game, light pasta dishes, and sauteed and grilled vegetables.


SPARKLING WINE

PORTUGAL

NV Luis Pato, Vinho Espumante Bruto, Maria Gomes, Beiras, Portugal 13.99/151.09

Friends, this is the season’s choice for an all-around great – and great value – sparkling wine! It is perfect for picnics, weddings, toasts, pig roasts, barbecues, brunches, mid-course interludes, and anytime a fresh, invigorating sparkling wine is the call. Luis Pato, one of Portugal’s most inventive winemakers, issues this joyous, convivial espumante (sparking) wine from a blend of Maria Gomes (90%) and Sercialinho. Reflecting a lemon oil hue in the glass, Pato’s Maria Gomes bruto casts fascinating scents of green pineapple, pomelo, tarragon, savory herbs, and sandy minerals. Fresh and invigorating on the palate, Pato’s bruto juxtaposes a kernel of fresh tropical fruit with bristling acidity and a luxurious, mouth-filling mousse. Crafted in the laborious and expensive methode champenoise, Pato’s bruto punches way above its price class and is an absolute joy to drink. Don’t miss this wine!

LINER & ELSEN
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FRIDAY TASTINGS:

First and third Friday of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

June 1 - Our Semi-Annual Champagne Festival!

June 15 Great Austrian Wine:
Red, White, Rose, and Sparkling

July 6 Summer is here and it is
Rose time!



SATURDAY TASTINGS:

Weekly; 12-4:30 p.m. No fee

June 2 Tour de France: Dom. de Margüi Rosé (Provence), Philippe Ravier Vin de Savoie Apremont and Mondeuse (Savoie), Sangouard-Guyot Mâcon-Villages Clos de la Bressande (Burgundy), Dom. Morey Bastide du Claux Malacare (Luberon), and Dom. de Fenouillet (Ventoux).

June 9 Italy and Austria: Malvirà Roero Arneis, Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica, Francesco Brigatti Uva Rara Selvalunga, Luigi Giordano Langhe Rosso, and Petroio Chianti Classico Riserva. From Austria: Judith Beck Pink.

June 16 French portfolio showdown! Taste the best from these topnotch importers: Cascadia, Vin de Garde, PDX Wines, and Bow & Arrow.

June 23 Summer coolers from Iberia: From Portugal: Luis Pato Vinho Espumante, and Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto. From Spain: Mokoroa Getariako Txakolina, Huguet de Can Feixes Blanc Selecció, and Martínez-Corta Rioja Crianza.

June 30 We’ve got the Oregon “ABCs” Sample wine and meet the delightful folks from Amity Vineyards, Broadley Vineyards, and Cameron Winery.



SPECIAL EVENT THIS MONTH:

Andrew Will Wines Retrospective Tasting with Chris Camarda

Tuesday, June 19 - 6:30 p.m. sharp

Join winemaker Chris Camarda for a comprehensive tasting three decades of the great Washington wines from Andrew Will Winery. We will begin the evening with wines from the 1993 vintage and move forward in time.
Seating is limited and prepayment is required. Fee: $50 per seat. Reserve now.

The complete list of wines is on our website.

 

 

 


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed


© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.