© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Availability and prices may have changed since the newsletter date.

 

JULY 2016 NEWSLETTER

 
RED WINES


OREGON - RED

2013 Atticus, Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, Willamette Valley, Oregon 22.99/248.29

This is a vibrant, expressive and wonderfully affordable Willamette Valley Pinot that defines the cool and elegant 2013 vintage. The Atticus 2013 Pinot Noir casts a lovely, transparent light garnet color from the bowl alongside deep aromas of cranberries, rhubarb, mustard seed and smoky soil. On the palate the wine fuses a fresh, vibrant red berry expression with sexy barrel notes of toffee and brown spices. Brisk acidity and fine, framing tannins melt into the wine’s juicy kernel of loganberry fruit and segue it to a long Volnay-like finish that adds notes of fruitwood smoke, orange peel and game. Buy a case to enjoy now and over the coming five years with roast chicken, broiled salmon, potatoes au gratin and pan-seared pork chops.

FRANCE – RED

2014 Domaine de l’Idylle, Mondeuse, Arbin, Savoie, France 16.99/183.49

Mondeuse is the cool, elusive, peppery red of the Savoie that has recently been confirmed to be a relative of the noble Syrah of the Northern Rhone Valley. Domaine de l’Idylle’s 2014 Mondeuse – from the warm, superbly situated cru Arbin – casts a beautiful transparent cherry skin robe and spicy aromas of black pepper, violets, black cherries and tobacco. On the palate the wine alternates waves of fig, cherry and black plum fruit with complex undertones of cinnamon, hoisin sauce and sweet pipe tobacco. Long and lingering on the back-palate, reprises of black peppercorns and crunchy pie cherries mingle with finishing notes of bright acidity, medicinal herbs and fine, buffered tannins. While the peppery connection to Syrah is undeniable, l’Idylle’s Mondeuse is far brighter, zestier, and more food versatile. Enjoy this affordable wonder now and over the coming three years with roast poultry, washed-rind cheeses, potatoes au gratin, vegetable souffles, and dishes featuring wild mushrooms and rich cream sauces.

2013 Domaine de la Petite Mairie, Bourgueil, Cuvee des Galluches, Loire Valley, France 15.99/172.69

The Domaine de la Petite Mairie’s Cuvee des Galluches – named for the rocky, sandy soils that underlie the domaine – offers intense aromatics, subtle tannins and immediate enjoyment. Translucent black ruby in the glass, the Galluches offers intense, classic Bourgueil aromas of cassis, Bing cherries, dark tobacco and stony soils. Warm and generous on the palate, tobacco, violets, dried herbs, licorice and currant fruit marry with a deep loam and gravel soil impression. Silky and supple, yet buoyed by electric minerality and juicy acidity, Petite Mairie’s Cuvee des Galluches finishes vibrant, pure and begging to be paired now and over the coming three years with pates and terrines, fresh and medium-aged chevres, grilled flatiron steaks, burgers, eggplant, and braised dishes featuring rabbit or pork.

2010 Olga Raffault, Chinon, Les Picasses, Loire Valley, France (S) 21.99/237.49

Olga Raffault’s flagship vineyard Les Picasses is a steep plot of alluvial clay, gravel, limestone and chalk. This parcel of nearly sixty-year old Cabernet Franc vines produces a dense earthy, ruby-colored wine reminiscent of dark cherries, dried herbs and minerals. Legendary for its ability to age (try the 1977, 1979 or 1985 should you have the chance), Raffault’s 2010 walks the magic line between immediate deliciousness and structure for longevity. The 2010 Picasses’s bouquet conveys classic Chinon expressions of cherry skin, gravel terroir, aromatic cedar, and bay leaf. Fleshy on the fore-palate, the 2010 Picasses shows chewy black currant fruit, button mushrooms, blond leather, cigar tobacco, bittersweet chocolate and a shimmering undercurrent of clay-gravel soil. Fine tannins and head-snapping acidity enter mid-palate to provide impressive structure and poise. Long, complex and earthy on the finish, the wine is just about the most perfect cellar candidate: immensely pleasurable now as well as coiled and structured for two to three decades’ evolution. Pair with roast shoulder of pork, chicken, duck or fresh chevres. Limited

2013 Jerome Calmes, Minervois, Les Vialas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 12.50/135.00

In the hinterlands of the Languedoc lies the ancient village of Minerve and its fabled rugged terrain. Arid climate, high altitude and rocky soils produce wines renowned for excellence, distinctiveness and value relative to their peers. From Les Vialas, one of Minervois’ most prestigious crus, Jerome Calmes has fashioned a textbook expression of the region’s rustic, hearty and delicious rouges. Opaque black-plum in the glass, Calmes’ 2013 Les Vialas casts garrigue-scented aromas of black cherry and black plum fruit, black pepper, leather and tarry earth. Bright, suave and impeccably balanced on the palate, the wine brims with smoky black cherry and black currant fruit, cured meat, baker’s chocolate and herbal notes of wild sage, juniper, tar and bay leaf. Appetizingly structured with plentiful fine tannins yet easily approachable, the wine finishes meaty, savory and ready for pairing now and over the next five years with grilled rack of lamb, burgers, garlicky ratatouille and grilled sausages. This is a terrific value for a first-rate Minervois.

2014 Domaine la Manarine, Le Carignan, Vin de France (S. Rhone Valley), France (O) 11.99/129.49

Popular as a blending grape in the Southern Rhone, Carignan rarely gets its chance to shine as a proper varietal wine. The Domaine la Manarine’s Le Carignan is 100% Carignan and shows the depth and character that’s possible with careful viticulture. Translucent black plum in the glass, Manarine’s Carignan conveys the varietal’s woodsy, gamy charm with vibrant loganberry fruit accented by notes of salumi, tar and lavender. Fleshy and supple on the palate, the Carignan focuses on its deep core of black cherry and boysenberry fruit before revealing fine, chewy tannins and hints of tar, underbrush and white pepper. Delicious, briskly acidic and admirably transparent, Manarine’s Le Carignan is a terrific, affordable choice for year-round enjoyment. Serve it with a slight chill at summertime BBQs and at room temperature in cooler months with roast meats, game, burgers, ratatouille and grilled eggplant.

ITALY – RED

2011 Scarpa, Monferrato Rosso, RossoScarpa, Piedmont, Italy (O) 15.99/172.69

Founded in 1854, the Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa is one of the aristocratic but woefully unknown names in fine Piemontese wine. Renowned for its long-aging Barolos and Barbarescos, Scarpa also crafts this lovely Rosso from the Monferrato hills east of the Langhe. A blend of 90% Dolcetto and 10% of the rare Ruche variety, Scarpa’s 2011 RossoScarpa opens with an opaque black cherry color and aromas of huckleberries, rose petals, cinnamon and blond leather. On the palate, plentiful savory tannins propel the wine’s old-school kernel of chewy bitter cherry fruit, saddle leather, mint and orange zest. Dry and appetizingly tannic, the wine begs to be paired with all things Piemontese: egg-rich tajarin with a butter and sage sauce, risotto con funghi, beef brasato, polenta and salumi. It will also pair well with thoroughly American fare like burgers hot off the grill, mac ‘n’ cheese and pan-seared pork chops. Limited.

2012 Monsecco, Nebbiolo, Pratogrande, Colline Novaresi, Piedmont, Italy 19.99/215.89

The Monsecco estate’s impeccable, long-lived Gattinaras from the ’50s through the ’80s are fanatically sought after by collectors. Today the estate continues its long track record of excellence with a full portfolio of exemplary expressions of traditionally crafted Alto Piemontese wines. Monsecco’s Pratogrande bottling is 100% Nebbiolo that casts a classic nose of pie cherries, salumi, white pepper, game and mineral-rich earth. Plentiful, fine-grained tannins and juicy acidity frame the Pratogrande’s sappy, mouthwatering sour cherry fruit. Long, zesty and brimming with character, the Protagrande finishes with complex notes of cloves, cinnamon, tobacco, dried orange peel and ferrous limestone minerality. Pair this pure, versatile and unusually affordable Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo now and over the coming decade with both classic hearty Piemontese cuisine and with classic everyday fare such as pizza, pasta, burgers and pork chops.

SPAIN – RED

2012 C.V.N.E. Cune, Crianza, Rioja, Spain 11.99/129.49

The Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (C.V.N.E.) is one of the most venerable and heralded estates in the Rioja. C.V.N.E.’s 2010 Crianza, a brilliant, classic Rioja blend of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Mazuelo and Garnacha Tinto, presents a translucent crimson-plum robe and dark, brooding aromas of spicy cherries, caramel, wood smoke and dusty earth. Suave and velvety on the palate, the Cune Crianza presents a saturated kernel of dark cherry and red currant fruit framed by soft tannins and complex suggestions of tobacco, menthol and vanilla bean. A complex cedar note and subtle Rioja barrel notes of vanilla and dark roasted coffee transition the Crianza to its long, red-fruited finish. This is deep, complex and satisfying Rioja Crianza that is best paired with hearty fare like meat, eggplant and potato tapas, roast duck and lamb, braised rabbit, and grilled burgers.
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 88-90 points


WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2014 Pierre Henri Gadais, Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Muscadet, Saint-Fiacre, Loire Valley, France 12.50/135.00

Few wines in today’s market combine soil specificity, refreshment, food friendliness and value like great Muscadet. Pierre Henri Gadais’ Saint-Fiacre cuvee is Muscadet in its purest, most crystalline expression. The Gadais’ 2014 Muscadet shines with juicy white grapefruit and pear skin notes infused with fleur de sel and oyster shell minerals. Clean, zesty and bone dry on the palate, the wine conveys expressions of lemon zest, quinine, ginger, cardamom and stony minerals. Lovely as an aperitif, Muscadet always shines brightest when paired with briny oysters on the half-shell, pan-roasted mussels, flash fried razor clams, Dover sole and sauteed green vegetables. Muscadet aficionados will delight in the wine’s bright, stony, saline minerality and exceptional purity. It is the value play white wine of the newsletter and will delight now and over the coming five years. Great Muscadet!

NV Joel Bouvet, Cache Cache, Methode Traditionnelle, Vin Mousseux de Qualite, Loire Valley, France (O) 14.99/ 161.89

The Muscadet region has a rich history crafting vins mousseux, or sparkling wines, from its varied terroirs. It’s our distinct pleasure to introduce this beauty from Joel Bouvet, who farms organically and – rare for the region – harvests by hand. A brilliant pale lemon gold in the glass, Bouvet’s Cache Cache conveys the smoky, mineral-rich soil of its origins in a delicate, refreshing (and refreshingly affordable) sparkling wine. On the palate, the Cache Cache offers classic Muscadet saline vigor alongside suggestions of pear skin, green melon and lime zest. The added bonus of bubbles propels the wine’s mineral expression while broadening its texture on the palate. Brisk, salty, and brimming with raw minerality, Bouvet’s Cache Cache is the sparkling wine discovery of the season. Serve it anywhere a sparkling wine is appropriate…and somewhere it’s not! Pair with picnic fare, bloomy rind cheeses, sauteed vegetables, salt-baked fishes, steamed clams and mussels and oysters on the half-shell.

2015 Domaine Labbe, Abymes, Savoie, France (S) 10.50/113.40

The Savoie’s Abymes AOC is named for the broken stones (abimes) that fall from the Alps during avalanches and scatter on the surface of the vineyards. The sole permitted grape in Abymes is the Jacquere, a crisp, light-bodied grape that marries fantastically well with all things seafood. Labbe’s 2015 Abymes takes the Jacquere to richer, more intense dimensions than ever before while still exemplifying the crisp, refreshing and glacier-like purity that we so love in the best Savoyard wines. A pale green-glinted gold color in the glass, Labbe’s 2015 Abymes offers aromas of yellow apple skin, turmeric and white limestone dust. On the palate, juicy acidity fuses with expressions of fleshy white grapefruit, shaved fennel and Mirabelle plums. Crisp, zesty and effortlessly refreshing, Labbe’s Abymes shows impressive concentration, persistence and follow through for the appellation and for its modest tariff. We suggest pairing this Alpine refresher with oysters, scallops, white-fleshed fish dishes and cheeses of the Savoie, and to enjoy it young in order to capture all the Abymes’ crisp acidity and crunchy minerality.

2014 Joseph Drouhin, Rully Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France (B) 22.99/248.29

The Cote Chalonnaise village of Rully is renowned for its bold, full-bodied expressions of red and white Burgundies. Rully’s whites are celebrated for their ability to convey both Burgundy’s limestone goût de terroir and a deliciously rich palate texture. For the Maison’s Rully blanc, Drouhin sources its fruit from the clay and limestone-rich soils of Rully’s best sites and every year offers an affordable Burgundy that approaches its Cote-de-Beaune counterparts in quality and intrigue. A bright lemon-gold color in the glass, 2014 Rully blanc offers a bouquet of limestone-infused lemon curd, clover honey and buttery brioche. On the palate, the wine expresses authentic Burgundian soil notes augmented by suggestions of lemon zest, earthy limestone minerals and candied ginger. Drouhin’s Rully finishes clean, crisp and focused with ample acidity lifting complex notes of star fruit, stony minerals, fresh thyme and hazelnuts. Drink this delicious, authentic and well-priced white Burgundy now and over the next three years with broiled halibut, grilled salmon, and light poultry and pork dishes.

2014 Domaine Sangouard-Guyot, Macon-Bussieres, Burgundy, France (S)
15.99/172.69

From a tiny, superbly situated parcel on the border with Pouilly-Fuisse, vigneron Pierre-Emmanuel Sangouard takes full advantage of forty-year-old vines and Bussieres’ classic clay-limestone soil to craft a delicious Macon-Bussieres of incomparable depth and precision. The wine brilliantly expresses its Maconnais origins with aromas of dark limestone soil, buttery hazelnuts and toasty brioche. Deep and fleshy on the palate, the wine fuses a juicy core of buttery lemon curd fruit with notes of pastry crust, brioche and a penetrating limestone mineral undercurrent. Balancing acidity and complex notes of buttered corn send the Bussieres to a long finish that echoes its calcareous terroir. As with all selections in Sangouard’s portfolio, this is superb, terroir-driven white Burgundy and a terrific value. Served cool – not cold – it will wow as a welcome wine, and makes a wonderful partner for herb-roasted chicken, trout amandine, chanterelles in a cream sauce, and light pork preparations.

2014 Champalou, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France (S) 18.99/205.09

Didier and Catherine Champalou are among Vouvray’s elite vignerons, fashioning some of the region’s most floral, expressive and soil-driven wines. Champalou’s 2014 Vouvray opens with a lovely lemon-gold color and textbook Vouvray aromas of gunflint, soft limestone minerals, honeysuckle blossoms and hay. One the fore-palate the wine presents a lush, velvety texture before tightening up and revealing riveting Chenin Blanc acidity and waves of inimitable Vouvray minerality. The wine finishes long and lush with buoying acidity and smoky mineral undercurrents that lift its delicious ripe melon fruit expression. A wine of impressive clarity, focus and soil definition, Champalou’s Vouvray can be enjoyed now and over the coming seven years with delicately sauced, poached fish dishes, sauteed summer squashes, fresh chevres, shellfish and light chicken preparations.

ITALY – WHITE

2015 Marchetti-Tenuta del Cavaliere, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Marches, Italy 14.99/161.89

The mineral-rich soils of the Classico Superiore sector of the Marches’ Castelli di Jesi zone imbue the finest Verdicchios with extra complexity and a deeply etched soil signature. A deep golden color in the bowl, Marchetti’s incredibly expressive Verdicchio opens with suggestions of sweet snap peas, honeydew melon and freshly ground white pepper. On the palate, the wine’s sweet melon and deep smoky mineral expressions yield to an intense, concentrated kernel of pear skin, yellow plum and peach fruit backed by brisk acidity and suggestions of oolong tea, dried chamomile flowers and bitter almond skin. Full-bodied and intense yet balanced and elegant, Marchetti’s Verdicchio begs for rich vegetarian recipes and fish steak preparations. Pair it now and over the coming five years with hearty fare that calls for a bold white wine. Think swordfish, fresh albacore tuna, rabbit, zucchini casseroles, white pizzas, and pastas dressed with olive oil, garlic and seasonal vegetables.

2014 Markus Prackwieser Gump, Weissburgunder, Mediævum, Sudtirol, Alto Adige, Italy (O) 15.99/172.69

This is knockout Pinot Bianco as only the Alto Adige can produce. Markus Prackwieser’s insistence on organic viticulture, native yeasts for fermentation, and minimal intervention to the wine in his cellar yields wines of impressive character and distinction. The estate’s 2014 Weissburgunder Mediævum casts a brilliant green-glinted lemon gold color in the glass alongside Alpine-fresh aromas of crisp Golden Delicious apples, chamomile, honeysuckle and smoky minerals. Fleshy yet crisp and refreshing on the palate, Gump’s Weissburgunder presents juicy Comice pear fruit complicated by notes of preserved lemon and fresh ginger. Smoky limestone minerals enter the picture as the wine transitions from the palate to its long, juicy finish. Pair it now and over the coming two years with lighter fare such as sauteed green leafy vegetables, summer squashes, earthy lentils, shellfish, sushi and sashimi.

SPAIN – WHITE

2015 Arregi, Getariako Txakolina, Basque Country, Spain 14.99/161.89

Portland’s first and most beloved Txakoli, Arregi, hails from the easternmost outpost of Txakoli called Getariako Txakolina. Pale green-tinted lemon-gold in color, Arregi’s 2015 Txakoli, emboldened by the great 2015 vintage, presents saline aromas of lime oil, fresh bay leaf and salty sea breeze. Fresh and still sporting a vivacious dose of dissolved CO2, the Arregi’s deep and tangy fruit expression suggests green plums, gooseberries and sappy juniper berries. Brisk and saline on the finish, the wine adds notes of white grapefruit, fresh tarragon and crushed cardamom pods. Showing enough bristling acidity to handle the most wine-challenging vegetables – even asparagus and green beans – Arregi’s Txakoli is a perfect fit for vegetarians and all of us who would love to have a vinous complement for our farmers’ market finds. Enjoy this during the coming summer and fall to capture its youthful vigor.

ROSÉ WINES

AUSTRIA – ROSÉ

2015 Weingut Stift Gœttweig, Rose, Messwein, Niederosterreich, Austria (S) 18.99/205.09

The Stift Gœttweig is a Benedictine monastery founded in 1083, perched 450 meters above sea level on the southern banks of the Danube. The uber-talented Fritz Miesbauer recently assumed direction of the monastery’s wine interests and raised the bar to new heights. This is the estate’s rose Messwein – or altar wine – produced only with the blessing of the bishop and crafted to be pure, light and drinkable. Stift Gœttweig’s pale salmon colored 100% Pinot Noir rose bursts out of the glass with high-toned aromas of pie cherries, red currants, raspberries, cinnamon and smoky soil. On the palate, the Messwein rose is crisp and fruity with hints of wild strawberries brightened by juicy acidity and a mineral underpinning. The wine’s core of crunchy berry fruit reemerges on its long, clean and zesty finish. This is sensational Pinot Noir rose and a superb choice for summer evenings. Enjoy it now and over the coming two years by itself or served with lentil soups, light salmon preparations, roast chicken, sushi, sashimi and mild Asian cuisines.

FRANCE – ROSÉ

2014 Chateau Saint Marguerite, Rose, L'Esprit de Sainte Marguerite, Provence, France 13.99/151.09 reg. 18.99

The L’Esprit de Sainte Marguerite defines why the Cotes de Provence is home to the many of the world’s finest roses. Nestled within a small pine forest and facing the Mediterranean Sea, the Fayard family’s Chateau Sainte Marguerite is a hidden sanctuary in the terroir of La Londe les Maures, among the finest in the Cotes de Provence. Offering the palest, almost white, salmon color, the L’Esprit de Sainte Marguerite’s classic blend of 40% Grenache, 35% Cinsault and 25% Syrah boasts sappy herbal aromas and a fresh palate of golden raspberries, Meyer lemon, crisp fennel, cherry blossoms and mint. Brisk and bracingly dry on the palate, notes of menthol, raspberries and gooseberries segue to a clean, dusty finish that fuses citrus and crisp berry fruit with savory notes of herbes de Provence. Pair this lovely dry rose now and over the coming year with broiled salmon, light pasta dishes, swordfish, steelhead and zucchini fritters.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

Website
Shop Online
Contact Us

Map and Directions

STORE HOURS:
Mon.-Sat. 10am - 6pm

CLOSED:

Mon., July 4th


FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. - Fee

July 1 Our Semi-Annual Champagne Blast! Bring your party hats.

July 15 A grand tasting of French wines and Champagnes from importer Jon David Headrick. Get ready!

Aug. 5 Great wines from Sancerre: Rouges, Blancs et Roses.


SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon - No fee


July 2 Viva La France: NV Bouvet Cache Cache Méthode Traditionnelle, Gadais Muscadet Saint-Fiacre, Champalou Vouvray, Dom. Sangouard-Guyot Mâcon-Bussière, Dom. de l’Idylle Arbin Mondeuse, Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses, and Jerome Calmes Minervois Les Vialas.

July 9 Tutti Italia: Markus Prackwieser Gump Weissburgunder, Marchetti-Tenuta del Cavaliere Verdicchio, Scarpa RossoScarpa, and Monsecco Nebbiolo Pratogrande. Plus: The Tuttles from Teutonic Wine Co. will dazzle you with their wines.

July 16 France on tour: Ch. Ste. Marguerite L'Esprit de Sainte Marguerite Rose, Dom. Labbe Abymes, Drouhin Rully Blanc, Dom. de la Petite Mairie Bourgueil Cuvee des Galluches, and Dom. la Manarine Le Carignan.

July 23 Oregon and Europe: Atticus Pinot Noir (Oregon), Arregi Getariako Txakolina and C.V.N.E. Cune Crianza Rioja (Spain), and Stift Gœttweig Rose Messwein (Austria).

July 30 Celebrate Oregon Wines: We feature some favorite wineries.


SPECIAL EVENTS AT L&E:

GREAT GERMAN WINES WITH CARL VON SCHUBERT
Maximin Grunhauser Estate

Weds. July 13 6:15-7:30 p.m.

Grünhäuser is one of Germany’s most esteemed estates, and the wines made by Carl Von Schubert rank with the best. Please join us for this rare appearance. Tasting fee: $10. No reservations are necessary. The full list of wines is here.

-----

A TASTING OF WHITE BURGUNDY FROM PAUL PERNOT

Tues. July 19 6:30 p.m.

Please join for a tasting of superb white Burgundies from winemaker Paul Pernot. Pernot is considered one of the leading lights in Puligny-Montrachet, and for good reason. Whether you are familiar with these wines or want to know what great is, join us for this exciting event.

Price per seat is $85. Contact L&E or purchase seats online. The full list of wines is here.

 


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed

© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.