We’ve tasted two vintages of this wine now, and we’ve featured it in our newsletter twice. We don’t exactly know how Jean-Regis and Magdeleine Chazallon pack so much vigor and spirit into their wines, but if you ask them, you’ll get an earful about the Ardeche, their chosen home, a wild country northwest of the Rhone, where vineyards are sparsely planted among national parks where hiking and rafting are more common activities than farming. Their vineyard is a naturally tended garden, high in elevation, growing Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault (among others) that blend together into something vivid and sharp and livelier than the usual. Aromas in the Petite Selve range from strawberry compote to cherry so ripe it stains your fingers, with touches of black pepper, orange oil, and ginger. The palate is rich, deep and filling like cherry jam, black raspberry, with a whisper of soil guided by fresh acidity and tannins that build slowly but surely on the finish. Serve this wine with a duck, a polenta, or a home-brewed burger.