For those who don’t already know, Landmass is one of the more exciting wineries to appear in Oregon in the last decade. Melaney Schmidt and Malia Myers arrived at winemaking through the usual path: a series of coincidences, small moments, and then a ton of hard work that led them from, respectively, Southern California and Denver, Colorado, to a crush pad in the Willamette Valley to make sparkling wine in 2018. In 2021, they grew enough to move their winery to the Columbia Gorge, and along the way they began to make still wines too. This first release Multitudes Cuvee is a celebration of their newer vineyard sources in the Columbia Gorge, where the wind, hot days and cool nights combine to create powerfully textured and intensely flavored Pinot Gris. Like all great examples of the grape, it offers richness with acidic tension and flavors from all over the flavor wheel. Aromas of white strawberry, potpourri, peach pit, loquat, and a dash of white pepper lead into flavors of orange, rainier cherry and fresh strawberry, all dancing on a string made of palate-waking acidity. Serve this first with cedar plank salmon and summer squash.