Les Pentes de Barene’s winery is in the tiny village of Pimbo, with one street and zero traffic lights. Nearby, the Adour river winds its way through clay and sandstone countryside laced with hills, forests, and farms on its way to Bayonne and the Atlantic Ocean. To the extent any appellations in France’s southwest are well known, Tursan isn’t one of them, though it abuts Madiran and Jurançon. For people more accustomed to looking for cities on maps, “a bit north of Pau” is the best we can do in this deeply rural quarter. The rare white wine from Tursan is a blend based on the Baroque grape, found nowhere else. Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc round out the other half of the blend. Always fun, in great vintages this wine is entrancing, with clear-cut flavors and rich textures not quite like anything else. Aromas of apple sauce and pear butter, beeswax and apricot and yellow rose petals come before the lush, seamless palate with apple and pear mixed with baking spices and a touch of almond on the finish. The acidity is fresh, the finish is bright. Lovers of Jurançon, Chablis and dry Chenin will find something to love in here, and if your next meal includes some sort of pâté, Tursan is essential.