Giovanni and Maria Viberti inherited an inn and restaurant in Vergne, a hamlet on the western edge of Barolo, in the late 1960s. The family made enough wine to serve to guests, but as Piedmont caught the winds of fashion in the 1960s and 1970s, so the Viberti family began to take their wine more seriously. Now they farm 26 hectares, focused in Barolo but not exclusive to it. This Barbera comes from vines planted in Barolo, and is clearly made by people who were chefs before they were winemakers. It is that sort of Barbera that perfectly complements a meal – for the sake of argument, mushroom pastas – without obscuring it. Aromas of inky black cherry cordial, nutmeg, orange peel and rosehip jam lead into a palate of bright black cherries and orange lined with tight grained tannins and dusty herbs like chamomile and bayleaf. A bit of baking chocolate on the finish, with a note of fresh acidity and pie cherries.