Cvicek is a type of wine that comes from the eastern Slovenian region of Dolenjska, in deep countryside and isolated valleys where old traditions tend to remain as they have always been. First officially recorded in the 17th century, Cvicek has the most utterly charming appellation regulations in the world. The title has rules governing the blend of red and white varieties (in curiously specific proportions), elevation of the vineyards, level of acidity, method of harvesting, sulfur addition (less than 25 parts per million) and perhaps most importantly, maximum allowed alcohol: 10%. In a world full of specific appellation rules that might tell a winemaker what sort of soil they can plant their vines in, Cvicek has the most comprehensive set of rules we have ever seen. It is a happy coincidence that all these rules tell people like Bozidar and Marco Zajc to do what they were going to do anyway, which is to trap a beam of sunshine in a bottle. The wine shines with its own ruby red light, and throws aromas of crunchy cranberries, raspberries, red cherries and apple blossoms. Green apples, pears, pepper and orange oil too. All of these scents suggest a fresh and zippy sip to come, and it does not disappoint. The palate is crisp and clean and fresh like spring rain, with mouthwatering, toe curling acidity and notes of cranberry, orange, raspberry, rosehip and a gravelly mineral touch through the finish. This is a red wine you keep in the fridge, to bring out only on special occasions such as lunchtime or dinnertime.