One day, several months ago, I was talking to an Oregon winemaker about Chenin Blanc. I asked him why there wasn’t more Chenin Blanc in Oregon, since it seemed such a natural, cool climate fit. He replied that he could not “in good conscience” ask any more growers in Oregon to plant Chenin Blanc, because it’s such a difficult grape to grow - especially in the cold climates that bring out the grape’s best qualities. The climate in Anjou is startlingly similar to that of the Willamette Valley. With this in mind it’s something of a miracle - or says something important about the mindset of French vignerons - that so much of the Loire Valley is dedicated to Chenin Blanc. Quart de Chaume lies in the heart of the Loire, where the Chateau de Suronde is surrounded by its Demeter certified vineyard, and like so many other wineries along the course of the river, they work a little magic each year to get Chenin Blanc grapes ripe enough to make wine. L’Equisse offers the classic aroma of peach, yellow apple and preserved lemon, with a hint of crème fraîche and chalky soil. The palate has Chenin’s signature tension, lightly creamy but buzzing with acidity, Anjou pear and apple flavors with a clean cut finish. This wine is at its best with midweight dishes like chicken or sea bass.