Cebreros is a sleepy town in the Sierra de Gredos mountains west of Madrid, and until five or ten years ago it was in a large empty spot on Spain’s wine map. Not because there were no vines – Garnacha has been at home here for centuries – but because people forgot about them when they left for the city through the 20th century. At the turn of the 21st century, these vines were rediscovered by people like César Ruiz, Flequi Berruti, Nacho Jimenez, and superstar winemaker Raul Perez, who saw the Pinot Noir-like potential of these dry Garnacha vines. Las Cabañuelas is a cuvee made from grapes purchased from like-minded neighbors in the area, handled gently and exposed only to neutral oak. It smells of bright juicy cherry, raspberry jam, tobacco, orange oil and cedar smoke. The palate is perfectly balanced, with chalky tannins and refreshing acid wrapped around stewed berries. A bit of earth and iron lingers on the finish. Have this wine alongside pork loin, meaty paella, or a dish featuring Cannellini beans. For best results, open the wine before you start cooking to give it time to breathe.