Dolcetto is generally considered the least of Piedmont’s three main red grapes, trailing behind Nebbiolo and Barbera in quality, price, and esteem. In the villages surrounding the commune of Dogliani, that scheme is turned around, and Dolcetto is the most important variety. There is a theory that Dolcetto originated in this southernmost corner of the Langhe, but whether that’s true or not, it does seem most comfortable here. Dogliani Dolcetto tends to have a little more depth and elegance than usual – perhaps because here Dolcetto gets the choice plots of land that other parts of Piedmont reserve for Nebbiolo. The Pecchenino family has been farming here for generations, and their Dogliani San Luigi is intended to be the everyday sipper, aged in stainless steel to preserve the purity of the fruit. The wine starts with Dolcetto’s classic pop of juicy black cherry, with blackberry, rhubarb, lavender and tomato leaf accents. Strong, drying tannins hold up the palate with intense acidity, pepper, dry soil, and fresh cranberry tart flavors. This is a wine made with meals in mind, lamb, baked pasta with a bechamel sauce, or risotto.