The Coteaux de Giennois is increasingly popular on the shelves of Liner & Elsen. This is the strip of limestone soil along the banks of the Loire just north of Sancerre, where increasingly serious Sauvignon Blanc comes from. Domaine de Villargeau stands in a hamlet of the same name, a modern, solar powered building across the road from a 17th century stone barn, both owned by the Thibaud family. Farming (mostly) organically, Marc Thibaud oversees the winery with the aim of producing a richly textured wine with crisp-edged aromas. Native yeast fermentations take place in stainless steel, where the wine is aged before bottling. This edition showcases the cool temperament of the 2021 vintage, with notes of lemon pepper, tangerine, salt, and orange blossom. On the palate, the wine sings with verve and clarity, offering lemon and pear and lemongrass, and a finishing kick of pure limestone. Bright but substantial texture gives this wine the ability to stand up to rich, savory cuisine. Rich cuts of freshwater fish, roasted birds rubbed in brine, and scallop soups come to mind.