The Weitgasse vineyard’s name means wide street, and before the 20th century it was communal pasture land for the local village of Gedersdorf. The site was overlooked because it was too high elevation and too cold for farming – even for vines – before planting techniques improved in the 20th century. Eventually, the communal pasture was split between adjacent farms, and the Mantler family planted it to Gruner Veltliner vines for this elegant, unassuming, and spicy wine. The vineyard is organically farmed and the grapes gently handled in the winery to maximize aromatic potential. Gruner Veltliner here in Kremstal should be peppery, and this wine has just about enough to make you sneeze. a mix of black peppercorn and fine white pepper, together with lemon zest and juicy apple, pipe smoke and dry, late summer hay. The palate, thanks to the gentle press, is seamless, with deep lemon and lime notes, and a lick of salty granite-laced minerality. On the finish, apricot and orange linger with a shake or two of pepper. This is a wine for all seasons and most food, at home with pork, with creamy pasta, with vegetarian dishes and simple freshwater fish.