The hill country south of the Po River in southern Lombardy is some of Italy’s most overlooked wine country. Whether people rowed by on the Po in the middle ages or today drive by on the E70, relatively few have made the choice to stop the way Alessandro Verdi did, settling his family and vines in the town of Canetto Pavese in the 18th century. Seven generations later Bruno Verdi is still making wine in these hills, uncumbered by the strict denomination rules of nearby Piedmont. For his white wines he grows Pinot Grigio, a common grape in northeastern Italy but almost unheard of in these parts. He harvests by hand and vinifies the grapes in cold stainless steel to preserve both acidity and fresh flavor, but the wine still shows impressive weight and lightly creamy texture. From aromas of orange and lemon, sage and salt through to intense flavors of orange juice, orange blossoms, orange zest and orange oil, there’s nothing shy about this wine. A dash of salt lingers on the finish along with a burst of fresh acidity. A great choice for minestrone, polenta, brined birds, or cheesy pastas.