Valeria Antolin is an artist who works in two media. On the one hand, she’s a winemaker in Mendoza, heir to famous winemaking lineage and a great winemaker in her own right with a deft eye and nose for balance and varietal character. She is also a painter, whose work is featured both in Loscano’s winery and on this bottle of wine, a deftly balanced Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley. The key element in great wines from Mendoza is restraint. The dry, sunny terroir here offers the temptation to turn the volume all the way up and produce syrupy gobs of fruit, but this cuvée is refreshingly light on its feet. Blackcurrant, blackberry, cinnamon toast, oak spice and vanilla bean feature on the nose, no one element dominating the rest. The palate has Cabernet Sauvignon’s signature bouquet of herbs like oregano, sage, and tarragon bundled together with plums, blackcurrants, and deep, resonant earth. This is a brilliant Argentine wine, and we’ve rarely seen one so complex and well balanced at this price. Priced for midweek burger night, but good enough for slow cooked pot-roast.