Albana is a famously infamous grape from the hills outside the city of Ravenna, awarded one of Italy’s very first prestigious D.O.C.G. designations in 1987 and almost immediately scorned for it. Most Albana before 1987 was made into inoffensive bulk wine, and much of it still is, but somewhere beyond all the shouting, there are a few small family outfits like the Geminiani family, who have always sought high quality and low yields from their vineyards. The Bianco di Ceparano is their flagship dry white, planted in high density vineyards to curb the grape’s inclination to overproduce grapes, and then aged in stainless steel, that ancient vessel of aroma preservation. Orange and peach pit, with lemon zest and a touch of almond come through on the nose, while the medium-weight palate offers a strong bedrock of stone-cut minerality, a drop of almond oil and waves of grapefruit, tangerine, and lemon. Serve with simple fish dishes or slow cooked polenta.