Fento means Fern in Galician. These are a common site in the Rias Baixas region, where the cool, damp air carries a whiff of salt from the nearby Atlantic and nourishes ferns and vines alike. Zarate’s winemaker Eulogio Pomares and Rebeca Montero were both raised here among vineyards, and founded Fento in 2012 as a personal label in the Condado de Tea subzone, a relatively warm and dry quarter of Rias Baixas, where wines show a little more weight and fruit than normal. Drawn from numerous tiny vineyards in the region, Fento’s wines are made with no set standard winemaking. The high degree of vintage variation here demands a flexible approach to making wine. The 2023 edition opens with peach, apricot, ginger, and orange mango sorbet with a light salty touch. Winter weight texture with generous notes of apricot, orange, and plantain. Like any good Albarino, a touch of salt lingers on the finish. This is a great wine for rich seafood stews, shellfish, or lemony mushroom risottos.