Mashed apples, oranges, lemons. Slate and pepper and Cardamom spice. These are the aromas bursting out the top of a glass of Algueira’s white Riberra Sacra. These are the aromas Godello produces in the uncanny steep, rocky, forest lined vineyards along the banks of the Sil River in Galicia. Rivers in Iberia have a habit of cutting canyons through the rock on their way to the Atlantic, and while this one is far wilder and less famous than the Douro, there’s an argument that the wine here is just as good – maybe better. Adega Algueira farms their vineyards organically and by hand, a necessity since several of their vineyards are so steep they can only be accessed by boat. This is the heartland of Godello, and the ancient, gnarled vines give the grapes layered texture, both fresh and deeply felt, silky with a thrumming baseline of acidity running through notes of gooseberry, lemon, and apple. This is a wine for exotically spiced poultry, rich freshwater fish, and charcuterie boards featuring hard Iberian cheeses and chorizo.