There is a stretch of the Mosel between Germany and Luxemburg where the iconic Riesling-lined slate gorge gives way to limestone terraces, the edge of the same limestone formation that underlays Sancerre, Champagne, Burgundy and Dover’s cliffs. This is the only place in the world where Elbling is still planted. It is one of Europe’s oldest grapes, once common throughout Germany and thought to date back to Roman times, but over time, more popular grapes replaced Elbling everywhere except in the vineyards of Matthias and his son Jonas Hild, who are have been the grape’s only growers for a couple decades now. For Matthias, it’s a matter of cultural preservation more than an economic venture, which is a good thing, because in order to make good Elbling, he keeps yields far smaller than he could, and even so, the wine rarely reaches above 10% abv. It is a simple, fresh, lively thirst quencher so stuffed with minerality that it’s fair to wonder if this is just dissolved limestone juice. Aromas of lemon curd pear blossom and salt give a hint that grapes were involved, but the palate is pure stone with a shot of lemon and green apple that bursts on the finish. Drink with simple seafood dishes, sauerkraut, charcuterie, and classic lunchtime fare.