Sergio and Clara Bortolusso’s vineyards look different from most Italian vineyards. There are no mountains bedight the horizon, no softly rolling hills made of clay marls. Instead, between Bortolusso’s rows of Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and other native Friuli varieties, there are canals. Irrigation is not an issue here on the shores of the Marano Lagoon at the northern edge of the Adriatic Sea. Seagulls ride the salt-crusted wind overhead as the vines drink directly from the ocean in silty, gravelly soil. This is unique terroir, and every one of Bortolusso’s wines carries the unmistakable scent of the sea. This Malvasia is no exception, but it’s plenty exceptional, with a rare aromatic spectrum of waxy pear, sweet fern, allspice, pepper, licorice and sea salt. The palate shows great tension between Malvasia’s natural inclination towards full body set against fresh acidity, with flavors of pear and peach, mint, licorice and candied ginger. A great choice for gently spicy curries, fried fish, or mussels.