Antonio Cerri was in his 80s and without an heir, one of the last winemakers capturing Boca’s ethereal scents of Nebbiolo, Croatia, and Vespolina in its most delicate form. A chance recommendation at a local restaurant led to two traveling winemakers, Christoph Kunzli and Alexander Tolf, tasting with Antonio at his winery in a tiny clearing in the forest. That tasting was enough for the pair to decide they would move here, beyond the edges of the known wine world, to save this property – and this once thriving denomination – from extinction. It took several years to gain Antonio’s trust and prove themselves up to the challenge, but their efforts were finally rewarded, and today we get to share in the reward, because this magical wine still exists. Organically farmed and naturally fermented, Le Piane’s wines seem to straddle the line between liquid and vapor, with brilliant aromas followed by clear-headed flavors of fresh berry fruit. In this entry-tier Maggiorina bottling, there’s black raspberry, marly clay, cherry cordial, black pepper, sage and tarragon. More cherry comes through on the palate with chalky tannins and peppery clay, with touches of rhubarb and raspberry on the finish. A fitting wine for delicate mushroom dishes, duck, or tender cuts of beef.