There is an argument that Nebbiolo is at its best when it is light, airy, and joyously fresh. Poderi Cellario’s Langhe Nebbiolo is a point in favor of this view, a wine so vibrant it seems to provide its own light in the glass, and notes of fresh black cherry, anise, red rose and orange peel lift in a cloud out of the glass. There is another argument that Nebbiolo’s greatest trick is to offer such an ethereal bouquet, then follow up with a tensely structured palate. Poderi Cellario’s Langhe Nebbiolo offers a touch of this too, silky at first with orange and strawberry fruit, before a gentle yet firm grip of tannins arrives on the finish with notes of underbrush, clay-scented earth, and dried orange peel. The freshness of the wine comes from gentle pressing and aging in entirely neutral, large oak botti that don’t influence the flavor of the wine. This is a wine that feels and tastes like a small batch, family farmed, naturally tended product, and for the most part it is, but Fausto and Cinzia Cellario actually make pretty big batches of wine. They make more than 20 kinds of wine in Piedmont from vineyards scattered throughout the Langhe. They tend each vine organically and never add yeast, yet all of Poderi Cellario’s many wines offer great value and true varietal character.