The Franche Comté is tucked neatly between Burgundy, Alsace, and Savoie, but produces almost no wine of its own. Vignoble Guillaume is a notable exception, a domaine planted on limestone marl similar to Burgundy in 1732 to provide wine to the Archbishop of Besançon. The vineyard’s main claim to fame – and still their primary business – is their nursery. While Phylloxera rampaged through the vineyards of Europe, the Guillaume family had the bright idea to save vines from across Europe and keep them alive in their nursery until the solution for the pest was found. They never did stop making their own wine, which is a good thing, because Xavier Guillaume’s organically farmed rendition of Chardonnay is sublime. A note lighter and crisper than Burgundy, this one starts with aromas of pineapple, mango, preserved lemon, shortbread, and olive brine. On the palate, we get kiss melon and canned peaches and candied ginger, all delicious and fresh, with a hint of that creaminess that marks Chardonnay. Open up a seafood cookbook; it doesn’t matter which page.