Lagrein is a cheerful delight. There are Lagreins in this world that rise to surprising hights of quality, complexity, and longevity, wines that rank among the finest wines in Italy. Even those wines are friendly and delicious, just like this affordable edition from Elena Walch. The Walch estate was a sleepy family winery in Tramin until Elena married into the family in the 1980s. An architect from Milan with no formal training in winemaking, she started a small side project of estate wines farmed at lower yields than the traditional Wilhelm Walch wines. It was an immediate success. In 1988, her name first appeared on the label and remains one of the most important names in Alto Adige. This Lagrein comes from warmer sandy sites on the estate, and has been exposed only to large format, neutral oak barrels at the winery. Notes of lavender and orange peel, blackcurrant and blackberry shine clear and bright. The palate is medium tempered, juicy with black fruits and bouncy acidity. Notes of cinnamon bark and earth come towards the finish with chalky tannins before the finish echoes with blackberries and oranges. This is a powerfully flavored wine suitable for game and strong, salty cheeses.