The Montonico Bianco grape is a rare grape with roots in Abruzzo’s Teramo district that run 400 years deep. Antonio Lamona’s La Quercia is one of the very few wineries to make it, under the Santapupa label reserved for his rarer wines. In a part of Italy devoted to large scale production of Montepulciano and Trebbiano, this organically grown curiosity is especially surprising. After harvest, the wine spends just a few months settling in stainless steel before bottling to give the Montonico grape its best chance to shine. The vineyard is just 3 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, and the salty morning wind gives a briny note from the first whiff to the last crisp burst of acidity on the finish. Aromas of peach and tangerine, sage and tarragon come through clear and bright, and the lightly creamy palate offers up additional notes of apple and pear before acacia blossoms linger on the salty finish. Fans of Pecorino and properly handled Trebbiano will recognize a kindred spirit in this wine, especially when set beside pan seared seafood or mushroom risotto.