It is sometimes difficult for Americans to understand that people like the Winkler-Harmaden family actually exist. Georg Winkler Hermaden divided his early career between ski instruction in the winter and art restoration in the summer. In 1977, he inherited the family castle Kapfenstein, along with a small vineyard. His wife Margot had studied agriculture at Reichenbach monastery and a selection of research institutes, so a second act devoted to innovative – organic – viticulture seemed perfectly natural. Their sons Wolfgang, Thomas, and Christof have taken over the estate since 2015, but Thomas still finds enough time outside the cellar to compete on Austria’s national paintball team. It sounds pretty fun to be a Winkler-Hermaden, but it’s almost as much fun to drink this delightfully aromatic Zweigelt grown on Styria’s iconic volcanic basalt soils. Notes of black raspberry, cranberry, black pepper, rose petals and cinnamon come through on the nose. The palate is lean and fresh and silky, full of tart berries picked off the bush, pepper, and granitic earth, notes that linger gently on the finish. This is a wine for all seasons and most dishes, from simple burgers with strips of bacon to cheesy spaetzle.