Domaine de la Pépière is a great Muscadet house, founded in 1984 by Marc Ollivier. He retired in 2019 and passed the domaine to his apprentices Remi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix, who learned Marc’s single vineyard philosophy – rare in Muscadet – and helped transition the estate to biodynamic farming. With such emphasis on the vineyards, Pépière makes some of the most profound Muscadet available. Somewhere along the way, the domaine picked up a few rows here and there of red grapes. Cabernet Franc and Merlot planted in Muscadet that are not allowed any sort of AOC designation, but in the right hands these vineyards can still produce a red wine with the strong scent of the Loire. This “Dancing Chicken” cuvée has a wildly complex and wonderfully spicy nose of red cherries, cranberries, tangerine, smoked paprika, sage, and ras el hanout. Thanks to the nearby Atlantic ocean, the palate is alive with acidity, surprisingly full yet juicy, with more tangerine and cranberry along with a touch of smoked meat. Dusty tannins build on the finish. This might be the only ‘Muscadet’ that doesn’t pair with oysters. Try it instead with duck, with pâté, with sweet potato dishes or smoked salmon.