San Casciano in Val de Pesa is the northernmost quarter of Chianti, generally home to some of the easiest, most quaffable Chianti in the Classico zone. As you drive down the valley towards the village of San Casciano, Cantine Borghi appears on the left among a forest of tall stainless steel fermenters. It’s not the most bucolic scene in Chianti, but their Campobello cuvee is a love letter to Tuscany. This wine fills our head with winding dusty lanes, cypress trees and ancient farmhouses glowing in the afternoon sunshine. In short, this is as classic as Chianti gets, and a stunningly complex wine. Made from the classic Chianti recipe of Sangiovese with splashes of Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia, there are aromas of black cherry and raspberry tart accented with sage, rose petal, rosemary, black soil, and bouillon with a touch of vanilla spice. The palate offers depth, with dusty tannins, ripe berries, baker’s chocolate and an earthy lilt that lingers on the finish. There’s enough acidity here for classic red sauce dishes, and impressive weight and structure without too much alcohol.