Bordeaux Blanc is not a particularly thrilling category. It is a place where growers generally meet expectations, because there is almost limitless demand for the traditional, cheerfully fresh wine that neither costs much money nor demands much attention. There is nothing wrong with this, but it is still unreasonably exciting when something like Chateau de Cranne comes along. From the first whiff of peach, pear blossom, basil and white strawberry it’s clear there’s something very different in this glass. No grassy notes here, instead there’s a distinct, flinty minerality. The palate is peach sorbet, with full body and silky-textured acidity and generous helpings of aromatic herbs like rosemary and tarragon. How did the Lacoste family manage to make such a different sort of Bordeaux Blanc? They used different grapes. This is half Muscadelle, a rare variety usually used to add acidity and a floral touch, and half Sauvignon Gris, a vanishing rare mutation that gives more body and structure than Sauvignon Blanc. We’re not sure who among the seven generations of the family chose to plant such iconoclastic grapes in their vineyard, but the result is compelling, a wine not quite like any other. Serve with squashes and mashed things, roasted chicken or autumnal soups.