The Kientzler boys have done it again! Domaine Kientzler is a habitual feature in our newsletter, because Thierry and Eric Kientzler have a nose for making utterly pitch perfect wine so persuasively Alsatian that if you hold the glass up to the window, you can almost make out the half-timbered houses of Ribeauvillé in the reflection. This Pinot Gris is drawn from vines in various plots in their Domaine averaging 35 years old, and the aroma is the Platonic ideal of Pinot Gris. Pear, mirabelle plum, white cherry and lilacs waft lazily out of the glass, a dusting of minerality suggests limestone soil but does not insist on it. Like a classic Pinot Gris, the palate is lush, coating, and flavorful, bouncing between orange peels, tangerine, lychee, and mineral earth. There’s just enough acidity to keep the band marching all in the same direction before a long, simmering floral finish. Dry, but not aggressively so. Rich, but not overwhelmingly so. We can’t think of a better way to dip into autumn Squash Risotto season than with this bottle.