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Passe tout grain is a Burgundian phrase roughly translated as “all grapes welcome”. In Burgundy it’s an appellation title for wines blended from Pinot Noir and Gamay, and since that’s generally a no-no in the region, Passetoutgrain wines tend to be cheap, used to soak up all the sub-standard Pinot Noir unfit for real Burgundy. At least, that’s how things used to be. These days, the appellation has a small but dedicated fan club, and the undeniable charms these blends are capable of have even reached Oregon. Anne Amie, under the direction of winemaker Jay Somers since 2022, is the latest Willamette Valley winery to try their hand at blending these two noble grapes. This blend comes from vineyards in the Carlton Hills and Chehalem Mountains, and combines the suave texture and spices of Pinot Noir with the cheerful squishy berries of Gamay. Strawberries and raspberries, orange bitters and violets, and a touch of clay on the nose. The palate glows red with ripe berries and a starburst of orange. There’s good weight here, and the finish is clean and zesty.
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