Bairrada’s blossoming international reputation comes largely thanks to the multigenerational talents of the Pato family. Luis Pato’s father João was the first winemaker in Bairrada to bottle his own wine in 1970, and when Luis took over the family business in 1980, he made the first pure Baga wines, deeply carved, earthy reds that stand the test of time. Over the decades, he has never stopped thinking ahead, trying new techniques and reinventing his wines. Pato wines, whether made by Luis or his daughter Filipa, are always made exclusively from native grapes. This illuminated white is a blend of Bical, Cereal, and Sercialinho, organically farmed under Bairrada’s rainy sky. Aromas of lime, granite, green apple, tarragon, sweetfern and quinine bounce merrily out of the glass. The palate is sharp as a tack, with yellow apples and yellow lemons, a touch of wintergreen and gooseberry. For all the high toned flavors and freshness, this blend is impressively full bodied, and leaves behind a finish full of fruit and floral accents. This wine’s strong personality fits it to many dishes, but we suggest trying it with tinned fish.