Gianluca Colombo is a rising star in Piedmont. His approach to winemaking is near dogmatic, and as gentle as possible. He works only with biodynamically farmed vines, and vinifies this Arneis in cement eggs to preserve every last drop of fruit character in the wine. As he puts it: “Only the vineyard, the vintage, and the grape should speak”, not the winemaker. Arneis can be a tricky grape; it’s prone to disease and sheds acidity quickly as it ripens, so vignerons have to be quick on the draw to preserve aromas like these: pear, apricot, and lemon zest with a touch of salted almond and honeysuckle. The Altre Vie really shines on the palate, fleshy apple and lemon juice reflecting sunlight. The core of acidity hums through notes of greengage plum, white cherry, and tarragon sprinkled on the finish. This is a wine with three-dimensional texture that would be perfect with Marcela Hazan’s Chicken with Two Lemons.