It has been a long time since a Bordeaux has really surprised us as much as this 2016 edition of Chateau de Cugat. To be frank, Bordeaux Superieur can be pretty bland. 60-80 million bottles each year, or about 12% of all Bordeaux comes under this appellation, and most of them are serviceable or reliable, rather than inspired. When Benoit Meyer inherited the 500 year old Chateau in the 1990s, he wondered if he could raise the level of the estate, noting it had soil very similar to that of nearby Pomerol. With a little extra care and attention the wines started to show depth and elegance that you generally have to pay $40 or $50 to find in Bordeaux. This might be Chateau de Cugat’s entry tier wine, but in the brilliant 2016 vintage it positively glows. The nose offers rich tilled earth, blackcurrant, black plum, and the aromas of a farm at harvest time: tobacco leaf, tomato patch, leather boots, bay leaf, burnt orange peel, cinnamon and rhubarb. The palate shows deeply etched black plum and blackberry, with peppercorn spice and a drop of orange oil. There’s chalky tannins here and surprisingly fresh acidity before a finish that comes with a hint of barrel spice and a heap of black fruit. Summer squash and steak off the grill is our vote for pairing.