Sardinia’s most cherished white variety is Vermentino, the grape shared with all the shores of the Ligurian Sea, Provence, Liguria, and Tuscany. Mario Bagella’s family have been growing grapes in the Sorso district of northern Sardinia for as long as anyone can remember. His father was the first to make wine from their grapes, and Mario has taken the vineyard to organic and low intervention practices. His vines are old, nearly a century old, and the hills of Sorso form an amphitheater to channel the ocean breeze through vineyards that might otherwise overheat. This wine is fermented without added yeast and ages in stainless for somewhere between 8 and 12 months. After savor-lined aromas of pineapple and orange, the wine arrives on the palate hearty, full and with a light waxiness that helps the flavors stick to your gums. Flavors like apricots, peaches, salted orange, and an earthy note of limestone chalk on the finish. The wine pairs best with the sort of armored shellfish whose existence in the human diet says poignant things about what hungry humans will do: Lobster, crab, and shrimp.