The process for writing these reviews starts with hasty notes written with a glass in hand. I’ll return weeks or months later to fill in all the background and edit out the nonsensical bits. For this Frappato from a small farm in Sicily, my notes started with “Stunning. Scintillating. Perfect?” and I just don’t know if I can improve upon that. Frappato is Sicily’s second favorite red, a fresher and spicier counterpoint to the broad shouldered Nero d’Avola. The Gurrieri family vineyards are on the island’s southeastern coast on the shoulders of the Hyblaean Mountains outside Ragusa. Sand and limestone soils provide excellent conditions for developing grapes with pure aromas and vivid acidity. Aromas like raspberry and loganberry fresh off the bush, with a strong whiff of peppercorns. The palate is brisk and refreshing, with loads of purple fruit and clay and pepper, conveyed in a medium of pure, transparent silk. The finish lingers in a Sicilian flower garden. Serve with fresh seafood, hard cheese, cured meat, or Cacio e Pepe.