Vincent Roussely’s vineyard is on the banks of the Cher river, a few miles south of the Loire and not too distant from Chateau de Chenonceau, the river-spanning castle that gives AOC Touraine Chenonceaux its name. This quarter of the wide and diverse Touraine appellation is interspersed with forests and frequent ravines, a slightly less settled part of the Loire. Roussely converted all his vineyards to organic in 2007, and makes a wide array of wines, from Sauvignon Blanc – ever-present here and thought to have originated just a couple miles up-stream – to this sturdy, winter-weight Gamay. This grape flourishes in the Loire Valley, where it tends towards earthy spice in keeping with the local clay-rich terroir, and the Canaille is a neat balance of Gamay’s complex personality, structured yet lively. Deep black cherry and pomegranate fruit comes alongside rich clay and black pepper. Full bodied with more tannin than we’re used to in Gamay, forest floor and chalky soil notes balanced with blackcurrant and cranberry that lead to a pepper streaked finish. This may be a Gamay, but it’s a substantial wine for winter dishes involving potatoes, roast chicken, and squashes.