The village of Poggibonsi is in the heart of Chianti Classico, adjacent to San Gimignano, and home to an uncomplicated sort of Chianti. Il Vescovado Chianti is a second label of Borgo Pretale, a blue-collar Chianti house outside Sienna that has never strayed from the classico style of the region. For both their flagship wines and this everyday quaffer, the winemakers use strictly native varieties, in this case 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, and 10% Ciliegiolo. The wine is raised in concrete and steel tanks, so the notes of pure fruit and savory earth are entirely unimpeded on their way through the nose and across the palate. Aromas of red cherry and cranberry, orange peel and rosemary lead into flavors of soft red fruit, orange peels, with dusty earth. The tannins are also dusty, gentle enough to handle a wide range of Italian cuisine. This is not a wine to fuss and fret over, this is something to open over a pan of pizza, a plate of pasta, or a dish of bechamel macaroni.