Fred Loimer’s Grüner Veltliner speaks of place with a clear and assured voice. He converted to biodynamic farming beginning in 2006, and speaks of his farm with the full spirit of Rudolph Steiner’s intentions, as a “closed operating organism”, where no part of the farm can be considered separate from the whole. Fred and his son Lois work vineyards in the Kremstal region, near the city of Langenlois, where gently rolling hills crested with forest all wear skirts made of vineyard. Loess soils predominate, a free draining type of soil that encourages concentrated wines. The nose shows impressive complexity: classic Gruner notes of snap pea and white pepper, with lemon and lime and bay leaf and wintergreen and tarragon in support. The palate is ‘vertical’, filling but not heavy or tiring, with elements of lemon and orange, with a touch of salt that lingers on the finish. This is another wine that wants to be friends with all sorts of food, whether you’re cooking asparagus or duck, a stew or a salad, seasoning with paprika or fish sauce, this chameleon of a wine will likely fit the bill.