There is a valley in central Marche called Alta Valle dell'Esino, tucked between two branches of the Apennines. It is a high country, surrounded on all sides by mountains and even the valley floor is 1000 feet above sea level. Sunny, dry days give way to cold nights, and the local brand of Verdicchio has a significantly crisper and lighter personality than the Verdicchios of Castelli di Jesi just over the eastern mountains. Roman records attest to ancient vineyards here, naming certain properties Terra Vignate, or Vineyard Lands, a name Borgo Paglianetto’s entry cuvee uses to remind us of this tradition, even if the winery itself has only been around since 2008. After harvest and fermentation this wine rests in steel tanks for a few months before bottling and release, because this is the sort of wine at its best when at its freshest. Aromas of white pepper and orange blossoms and McIntosh apples lead into a spicy palate of lemon curd and apple with a touch of ginger on the finish. Verdicchio always has weight, but in Matelica, it’s always lively and crisp too. A great way to welcome the first spring vegetables.