Daniel and Jonas Brand are on the razor’s edge of viticulture in the northern Pfalz. Based in the unpretentious village of Bockenheim far away from the fancier estates of Mittelhaardt, the Brand brothers were free to chart their own course. Starting in 2014 when Jonas joined the team, they transitioned the winery to organic viticulture, and today the vineyards teem with life; plants grow high between the rows and flowers bloom through the trellising wires. If their vineyards look wild and energetic, that conveys through to the wines as well. This blend of 85% Chardonnay with 15% Riesling is one of the most intensely acidic wines of the year, filled with lemon, lime zest and kumquat, green apple and limestone dust, with a faint floral accent that drifts off the finish. This is a wine as refreshing as they come, and belongs on the table next to ceviche, sashimi, or sauerkraut with sausages.