When lava is hot and spewing fresh from a volcano it is probably the worst sort of soil you could imagine to grow plants in. For one thing, your plow would melt. When lava cools down and has a few millennia to decompose, it becomes some of the very best soil in the world. Rich in essential minerals like potassium and porous enough to retain water in just the way vines like it. Massimo Setaro and his family farm their vineyard inside the Vesuvio Denomination (and National Park) with a focus on native varieties, gentle vinification, and organic farming. It is his belief that Vesuvio has the same sort of potential evident in wines from Mount Etna, and this charming Aglianico is strong evidence that he’s right. Aromas of cherry, cranberry, baking spices, wet clay, white smoke, pipe tobacco and orange zest lead to a palate of red berries from cherry to strawberry, orange, and smoky soil. Aglianico tannins can be terse, but here they are strung like violin strings, bringing tension to this even tempered wine. Serve with two foods invented in Naples: Pizza and pasta.