Graves is often forgotten in Bordeaux, a sleepy, unfashionable neighborhood southeast of the city, far away from all the hubbub of Medoc and the trendy garagistes of the right bank. In truth, Graves was once the heart of Bordeaux wine country, before vineyards were even planted in Medoc, it was wine from vineyards planted on gravel soils just outside the city that first drew the attention of the founding fathers, that filled wine shops in London, and set the example that all of Bordeaux now follows. Chateau Magneau is an ancient Graves estate run by the Ardurat family since before the reign of Henri IV began in 1589. The family have always made good wine for a reasonable price, and this classic, full-yet-elegant red is no exception. 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, this is Bordeaux as it has always been. Aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry, tobacco, gravel and iron-rich clay with a whiff of lavender. Full with a sturdy frame of tannin, there’s more black fruits, blueberries, heather and pepper that lands neatly on the earthy finish. Bordeaux’s  appellation law states that it must be paired with steak – preferably filet au poivre – but we won’t tell so long as mushrooms are involved in the recipe.