There is a rule for selecting wine, that if a given wine is named for a member of the family it must be good. Donna Chiara is the granddaughter to Clelia Romano, who makes Colli di Lapio wines alongside her daughter Carmela in Irpinia. This rugged denomination is folded into the mountains west of Naples, and it’s the center of Campanian wine production. Clelia Romano is one of the most central figures in the valley, famous for her gob-stopping lees aged Fianos that set the standard for white wine in the region. She brings the same sort of power and textural intensity to her red wines too. This Aglianico smells of black plum and blackcurrant, iron-rich clay and sandstone, allspice, leather and oregano. Stringent tannins bind together flavors of inky black fruit and smoky black soil. This wine is full bodied like a proper Taurasi at twice the price, and as it lingers on the finish, complex notes of violets and aromatic spices appear. Pair this with full-bodied meals like Ragù Napoletano, slow cooked ribs, or creamy mushroom pastas with enough salt to match the wine’s tannic heft.