Contini was founded in 1898, and stands today as Sardinia’s oldest winery. After five generations in the family, the winery has spread out geographically from Oristano, the western coastal region where Continis have always lived and where their signature – and singular – white Vernaccia is made. Though the winery produces wines of every color and from every corner of the island, there is something about living next to the Mediterranean that influences work in the cellar. There is a freshness in this bright red Cannonau that speaks of ocean breezes blowing through the vines in Ossidiana, delicate notes of earth and herbs drawn from the vineyard’s clay and sand. You can taste all this because this wine only ever touches stainless steel tanks before bottling. You can smell three leaves: tomato, bay, and curry. There’s red cherries and orange peels and black peppercorns too. The palate is surprisingly light for Cannonau, with silky threads of tannin woven through cherry and orange fruits before the finish adds notes of sage and tarragon. While charcuterie and tomato-based dishes are on the menu, this is also the rare sort of red that goes with saltwater seafood – particularly the fried kind.