A hearty, simply vinted Langhe Nebbiolo is one of the real joys of the wine world. The Anfosso family, descended directly from the De Forvilles who first planted vineyards in the 1860s, understand that while their vineyards may be some of the finest cru sites in Barbaresco, it is worthwhile to offer this simple red. Transparent red in color, bursting with aromas of licorice and black pepper, roses, cherry jam and clay scented earth, filled with flavors of cherry cordial and smoked orange peel. This is Nebbiolo unencumbered with oak, delicately pressed so only the most elegant tannins make it into the wine to give the finish a firm Piedmontese handshake. It is refreshing to see that a winery as well known as De Forville still makes cheerfully inexpensive table wine from young Cru Barbaresco vines. There’s enough structure here to stand up to delicate cuts of steak or pork, and as always where Nebbiolo is involved, mushrooms should feature somewhere in the menu.