About 40 miles north of Tours, the Coteaux du Loir (without an e), the most northerly vineyards of the Loire (with an e) valley grow a curious and rare red variety, Pineau d'Aunis. In character, it gives some of the earth and spice of Cabernet Franc, some of the juicy freshness of Gamay from the Loire, and some of the pretty fruit and elegance you might find in Pinot Noir from this far north. Pineau d'Aunis is a rare and wonderful grape that lends itself to a wide and exotic palate of food pairing. This example from Domaine de Belliviere is among the finest available, leading with a silky, elegant rush of red berry fruit. White pepper notes spring up on the mid-palate and continue through the finish. Utterly charming and delicious now, this will age neatly next to Belliviere's Jasnieres blanc in your cellar.