Each fall, the Golden Oriol stops in the vineyards of Tuscany on its way to winter lodgings in central and southern Africa. The bird cuts a bright yellow dash, and eats so many nearly ripe Sangiovese grapes that local winemakers nickname it Il Golo, or “The Glutton”. Alessandro Sartini is just one of dozens of sardonic Tuscan winemakers to put the bird on their wine label. The grandson of Adomo Fanetti, who founded the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation, Alessandro has old winemaking knowledge in his blood, and his wines have unusual purity and just the right note of rustic charm that Sangiovese should have. Aromas of pepper, suede, sage and dried earth come alongside juicy red cherry and currant notes. The palate is delicately balanced between acidity and tannin, with more cherry fruit, raspberries, and a strong element of savory spices like oregano, tarragon and bay leaf. Clay scented earth lingers on the finish. This is a wine for tender bistecca with basil pesto, pastas featuring pancetta, and very nice burgers.